We're starting with real sequences today, you'll get a new sequence every time and we'll always be running them in parts, starting with a small part and then adding more&more obstacles, just as you can see in the video - reward where I rewarded and then start from 1 again, meaning that you'll always be doing the whole sequence only on a 4th try or so. Whole sequences will be pretty long, to get the flow, but do NOT run a whole sequence again and again - you can run little parts several times, but the whole sequence only once or twice. Always run it without the dog first and only when you really know it, try with the dog. After every try, PLAY, give a dog a break to rehearse the next sequence on your own and only then try again.
Don't keep running the same sequence for 2 weeks!!! You can either think of another sequence on your own or keep working on multi-wraps and sends (from lesson 1 and 2). Also, don't forget to keep working on weaves and contacts, we'll get back to that later!
And Bi on the same sequence to show how things should look like on a low and then higher height:
1. introducing straight lines: after all the cik&cap work, it's time to introduce some straight lines and extension jumping too. Set a straight line of 2 or 3 jumps between two tunnels (or simply use one if you don't have two), start with some cik/cap to tunnel, cik/cap to tunnel, then straight over the first jump to cik/cap on a second jump back to tunnel, then two straight jumps to cik/cap on a third one, cik/cap again on a next jump etc. - just think of something, putting more and more straight jumps in between one and another cik/cap. See a video and again another example here:
2. sequencing: start with cik on 1, run in for a front cross between 2 and 3, ask for cap on 2 from the landing side, RUN for cik on 5 (extension jumping on 4), another cap on 6 and finishing with cik on 8, rewarding in the direction of 9.
3. bang the see-saw game: if you did the "closing drawers and doors" trick, then you're all ready for this new game. If you don't have a see-saw, you can use a small plank with something underneath so that it moves when the dog pushes it with front legs. If you have a see-saw, either lower it almost to the ground or support it so that one end is 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) off the ground and have them push it down with front feet - you can then raise it somewhat more off the ground. Do not promote 4 feet, 2 feet is better to teach them to push. Jackpot for most powerful pushes and eventually stop rewarding the gentle touches. Reward away from the see-saw, you want a push&go (I'm not doing very good job on that in the video, I forgot to bring better treats for that - a toy would actually be even better). ONLY work on this part (step 1 and 2) for next 2 weeks (no 4 feet yet!) - I included next steps in the video just to give you an idea what's the plan 🙂
I'll be answering your comments till Friday 29th. Then I'm leaving for EO and have the camp after that, so we'll be on break till 15th August so that everybody can catch up AND you can practice cik&cap some more. We're introducing straight lines too today, but if you only started with cik&cap when the class started, you still need to do quite some work on that anyway - especially exercises 1 of lesson 1 and 2! You can also keep adding height... So, plenty of work for everybody! The second week of this lesson will be from 15-21st August, with no video commenting in between. I like those breaks as they take some pressure off and I can always see a huge progress after the break!
yea looks like fun…
Iam not great at set up sequence.. so roughly what is the distance between jump ect,,
cheers sinead
Try to set it so that the distance between obstacles are 5 to 7m.
Hi Silvia, Congratulations on qualifying for world championships AGAIN!! We’ll definitely all be cheering you on!!! 🙂 🙂
I was just watching the showjumping world championships on DVD -- I had tickets but at the last minute couldn’t go (it was in kentucky) 🙁
The top 4 finalists go into a final ‘jump off’ where they have to jump the course on their own horse + the other 3 horses. The rider with the least faults (& fastest time) after these 4 rounds is world champion. Imagine if you had to do that at the agility world champs!!
I was enjoying watching the horses jumping in full extension + doing ‘cik/cap’ over huge jumps 🙂
I think that if we had to do it that way in agility, I would always win as my dogs don’t run for other people 🙂 🙂 🙂 Yeah, agility is very different in the meaning that team work is everything. You can take a World Champion dog and give her to a World Champion handler and they won’t do anything 🙂 It’s not so much about how technically perfectly you handle -- it’s mostly about what a team you make with your dog.
Thats why us Aussies will probably never win a world championship coz we can’t take our own dogs due to our very strict quarantine laws coming back into our country. The handlers that have competed in worlds have a week to work with someone elses dog before they compete. I’m pretty sure that’s what happens anyway.
But Congrats to you Silvia! Huge acheivement and I’m sure you’ll do well!
Yeap, it’s very sad you can’t travel with your dogs… Hopefully they once change the rule, just as UK did!
Yeah, i was complaining about our quarantine laws all through puppy class. We need to start campaigning! What state do you live in? Your dog is very cool 🙂
Thanks! I’m in WA, in the perth hills. It’s a shame coz theres so many great dogs in Aus. Somehow I don’t think they’ll be changing laws any time soon coz were sooo strict! I suppose we have alot to be thankful for though, they’ve managed to keep so many ugly diseases out because of it!
Did you know they’ve changed it from 6 months to 1 month quarantine? I didn’t know agility was so big in WA..I’ve just joined the RC class and there are lots of people from WA! My best friend lives in Geralton, so grace and i will be in WA every now and then (For everyone who doesn’t know Australia v well -- western australia is about a 5 hr flight from where i live in Victoria)
🙂 Do agility people in WA tend to travel to other states for competitions or are there enough trials over there?
Ha!! Praps we should advocate for a change of rules.. I’d like to see you win every year! 🙂 🙂 However, it sounds like it might turn agility from a sport into a comedy; watching all the top dogs simply refusing to ‘play the game’. You’re right -- definitely about the team. Although, I’m sure grace would do it for anyone 🙂
Hi Silvia,
Thanks for breaking it down more for us. Really great instructions this week.
Congratulations on qualifying again!!! I watched your runs last year, and they were my absolute favourite! Good luck this year!
Thanks! 🙂
OH my, know I have to RUN!!
🙂
I want to congratulate you too!! Darwin and myself would be glued to the computer cheering the three of you! 🙂
I set up exercise 1 and practiced it with my older dogs-what a blast! They’ve never been taught any type of turn tight cue and they were able to turn pretty tight based on my decel and using “tick and tock”.
My question has to do with the timing of the verbal-it seems like timing is super important when I was late, they of course turned wider. Should I be aiming for 1.5 strides before the jump to use the verbal?
Yeap, something like that. It’s really important not to be late -- what shouldn’t be too much of a problem as you can’t be too early! 🙂 That’s the good thing when you teach it as “go ahead find something to wrap” -- you can’t be too early, so it’s actually pretty easy to get it right: just say it as soon as the dog is over the obstacle before!
Silvia, again congratulations! As I said in another post somewhere on your website, we’ll be there to cheer. Anybody else going to France? We could meet up and cheer together for Silvia!
Hi. We had a veeeery quick session tonight when I came back home. My camera was out of charge, I had maybe 2 mins left. I’m sorry but I didn’t have time to set all the lights and everything, so it’s very dark. Just to check if we’re doing it ok. We had tried cik and tunnel this afternoon, but it was too hot so we didn’t even try a sequence. This is actually the first try with the first part of the sequence.
Thanks again. Looking forward to your comments.
L&S
Cool! That’s exactly the plan! You don’t need to run it as I numbered, mix it up when you go for collection and when straight as much as possible so that she learns to pay attention -- versus just running the already known sequence. You can run it in different order every time.
Ok, thanks. Btw, I think that “out of charge” is not even english… I meant that it had low batteries… 🙂 but I’m sure you got it anyway! 😉
Good night!
L.
Hi Silvia,
We have a 2o2o with the see saw which I’m sure can use improvement Do I start with the bang game from steps 1 & 2 regardless? If so, do I put the target on the end of the see saw to start?
Thanks so much
His see saw actually looked really good on a video you sent, so you can focus on other things instead… But if you want, you can of course play some with it too, it definitely won’t hurt. You can use a target -- I usually just shape it, it takes a few seconds 🙂
Thank you. What I need help with on the see saw is him driving ahead and banging when I stay behind. What you saw on the video is when I run past or do a push from the end, those are good. When I am behind he doesn’t go as fast to the position and he puts his front feet toward me. Can you give me some suggestions.
Placement of the reward. See Charlotte video -- that’s how I work on forward focus and drive even with a handler behind.