We're starting with real sequences today, you'll get a new sequence every time and we'll always be running them in parts, starting with a small part and then adding more&more obstacles, just as you can see in the video - reward where I rewarded and then start from 1 again, meaning that you'll always be doing the whole sequence only on a 4th try or so. Whole sequences will be pretty long, to get the flow, but do NOT run a whole sequence again and again - you can run little parts several times, but the whole sequence only once or twice. Always run it without the dog first and only when you really know it, try with the dog. After every try, PLAY, give a dog a break to rehearse the next sequence on your own and only then try again.
Don't keep running the same sequence for 2 weeks!!! You can either think of another sequence on your own or keep working on multi-wraps and sends (from lesson 1 and 2). Also, don't forget to keep working on weaves and contacts, we'll get back to that later!
And Bi on the same sequence to show how things should look like on a low and then higher height:
1. introducing straight lines: after all the cik&cap work, it's time to introduce some straight lines and extension jumping too. Set a straight line of 2 or 3 jumps between two tunnels (or simply use one if you don't have two), start with some cik/cap to tunnel, cik/cap to tunnel, then straight over the first jump to cik/cap on a second jump back to tunnel, then two straight jumps to cik/cap on a third one, cik/cap again on a next jump etc. - just think of something, putting more and more straight jumps in between one and another cik/cap. See a video and again another example here:
2. sequencing: start with cik on 1, run in for a front cross between 2 and 3, ask for cap on 2 from the landing side, RUN for cik on 5 (extension jumping on 4), another cap on 6 and finishing with cik on 8, rewarding in the direction of 9.
3. bang the see-saw game: if you did the "closing drawers and doors" trick, then you're all ready for this new game. If you don't have a see-saw, you can use a small plank with something underneath so that it moves when the dog pushes it with front legs. If you have a see-saw, either lower it almost to the ground or support it so that one end is 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) off the ground and have them push it down with front feet - you can then raise it somewhat more off the ground. Do not promote 4 feet, 2 feet is better to teach them to push. Jackpot for most powerful pushes and eventually stop rewarding the gentle touches. Reward away from the see-saw, you want a push&go (I'm not doing very good job on that in the video, I forgot to bring better treats for that - a toy would actually be even better). ONLY work on this part (step 1 and 2) for next 2 weeks (no 4 feet yet!) - I included next steps in the video just to give you an idea what's the plan 🙂
I'll be answering your comments till Friday 29th. Then I'm leaving for EO and have the camp after that, so we'll be on break till 15th August so that everybody can catch up AND you can practice cik&cap some more. We're introducing straight lines too today, but if you only started with cik&cap when the class started, you still need to do quite some work on that anyway - especially exercises 1 of lesson 1 and 2! You can also keep adding height... So, plenty of work for everybody! The second week of this lesson will be from 15-21st August, with no video commenting in between. I like those breaks as they take some pressure off and I can always see a huge progress after the break!
Hi,
Here is my video of the first sequence from today’s session. I tried running faster to get Maia to engage and be more excited -- she runs fastest when I am with her or is she is chasing me.
She seems to drop the bar on cik often. I also think I am late with my commands? (and yes, one time I got my cik and cap mixed up but she still did it anyway :/ ) I could not do too many sessions as it was getting hot out and I was overdresssed and Maia was getting hot too (and I still had weaves, teeter and RC to practice with her)
Cool, that’s definitely faster. And it’s long enough for one session. You’re sometimes somewhat late, but mostly in time for this height: but it would be better to say it even earlier as when the bars get higher her take off point for extension will move further out. But yes, she is knocking on cik a lot… For cik, they need to push from their left leg more… -- maybe she has somewhat weaker left leg? It happened with La once and phisotherapist in fact noticed left leg is somewhat weaker, so we did lots of left leg strengthening (standing on left side legs, standing on hind left-front right diagonal legs etc.) and the problem went away.
Silvia,
Thanks so much for the new “RECENT COMMENTS” feature! It works great! And now I can catch up with all the new posts that are back on previous pages--very cool! 🙂
Everyone’s videos & comments have been so helpful--thanks!
Kathy & Elsa
Glad you like it! If anybody has another idea for improvements, let me know!
Hoping to get some training done tomorrow, rain has been crazy here last few weeks so pretty much done NOTHING! What sucks is that weather has actually been really nice the last week but I’ve been making a friends wedding cake so the dogs training goes down the toilet when I’m working on a cake and now I’m finished and the rain is starting again! So annoyed but will try to get some training and video done before we get too far behind.
Entered Buzzy in his first agility trial last weekend. To cut a long story short…he’s def not ready! We had fun though. The first obstacle was a tyre, he went straight under it and then proceeded to do his own course. He slightly kinda followed me but the course was too tight for how fast he is so basically just did what he wanted! Made me realise just how much cik and cap will help with him, would have been great to have it all perfect for that run! His new thing aswell is when were training at our club and the jumps are at his jumping height and he’s coming up to the jump a bit tight…..he goes straight under it! He sees the upright and just wraps it, not bothering with the jump! Even when we put 2 more jump bars underneath he just crashed through. So gonna need to work on getting cik/cap up to his jump height I think!
Yeap, you definitely need to get to full height with cik&cap, but you can’t rush it, he needs to learn how to jump that way first… I sure hope the weather allows you to go back to work soon!
Hi Silvia,
We have been training some more carpet RC. What do you think? I guess we are now close to her full speed, aren’t we?
We’ve been training the 1st sequence. Unfortunately before seeing Carol’s video but at least I have understood thanks to her video (in comparison to mine) that I’m not making any precue for my cik!
I haven’t taped the see saw but she now has strong pushes with the mid size.
Thank you
Céline
PS: Summer is finishing we’ll have less time to train… So sad.
For carpet running, make sure you throw soon enough and far enough that she is chasing it in full extension. On the video, she is sometimes collecting to catch the ball as it’s too close to her. The sequence actually went really well, just make sure you now don’t fall into the habit of running everything backwards. Run normally and cue collection with some front and opposite hand, but your feet should always be facing the right direction -- if not, you can’t run as fast as you could otherwise. Cik, she was actually reading well because of your declaration so she was very tight there too, great job!
all those technical requirements are so exciting!
I finally found a sport as technical as horse-riding (that I had to leave few years ago) thanks to all those specifics advices you give me.
thank you so much for helping me being really accurate
for running contact, lesson 1 of RC class will help me determine what is her full high speed to recognize it. we need to practice it more
Hi Silvia, this is my video of lesson 3. We didn`t do all, because Fine has trouble with her lung or her heart. We used the brake for something like a recovery but it looks like the two weeks weren`t enough. I was and I actually am afraid of doing too much running with her. She breathes so hard and loud than -- I can´t stand it.
Looking forward to your comment.
GREAT weaves! Very nice entries and independence!!! Time to close the channel some more! Very nice banging too! Great speed in straight lines, great sends to tunnels and great collection on turns, but after the collection, even when landing in the right direction, she often gets thrown out of the turn some… To fix this, do lots of ball throwing in the opposite direction, just as you’re doing on the tape: that should help to fix it.
Sooo sorry to hear about her health problem… How is that you don’t know if it’s lung or heart? Is she on any kind of medication? What are the symptoms, other than loud and hard breathing?
Thank you for comment. We had one date with the vet and he gave her some cortisone because there was a sound on lung while breathing. It got much better for a few days but then she startet to breath the same way again. It`s just like couphing. The heart is my suggestion -- because it is always after running and when it is hot or humid and she needs almost one hour for recovery!
We will have a date tomorrow again and we will see what to do.
I´m very afraid with my dogs and this is something I can`t handle well. But hopefully she will be fit again. Yesterday when we did the video it was horrible and we had to stop her running for three times. My husband, who is always very cool was very afraid too.
HI Birgit, my pyrenean sheperd had elongated soft palate, he could’nt breathe normally and after some running or agility he was tired and needed hours to recovery . and he was too fat. after a surgery he’s now OK. i don’t know if it can help for your Fine but pyrenean sheperd can have this problem too… hope she will get well soon..
Good luck with your PS. Mine had a bad heart as a baby. I knew it when I got her and didn’t want her to be put down. She had a valvuloplasty at 6 months for Pulmonic Stenosis which required a 1/2 day recovery. She still has a major heart murmur because her pulmonic valve was stretched out and they don’t go back down in size. I had some trouble over the years with her shutting down at trials due to stress and then she couldn’t calm down. Overall she’s been a great dog. Here in the US she earned a second overall and a first overall (as a veteran) at the NADAC Championships which are all about speed. She was an awesome frisbee and dock diving dog but was a little too fast and powerful for sheep. She’s a wonderful trail partner and a cow dog. This year she went on drugs for hypothyroidism because we too had always struggled with weight. At first her dose was too high and she was Pyr Shep behavior times 10. I cut it in half and now she’s a wonderful companion once again. She doesn’t really want to work for her ball, or tug anymore so I leave her alone. I’d love to still show her, but for some reason she quits at trials and just trots. I never would run a slow dog. I suspect the lack of effort is the result of her heart, but it costs a lot to find out cause I tried once a while back. Anyways good luck with your pup. It looks like she had a ton of drive.
Nancy
I hope you can find out what is wrong with Fine.
And that they can make her healthy again.
I just took Tibby to the vet today and she has a heart murmur that she didn’t have 4 months ago, so we are going to the University Hospital for an ultrasound soon.
Catalina, I hope Tibby will be fine and that it’s nothing serious.
Keeping my fingers crossed for you!!
Thank you 🙂
Catalina, good luck for you and Tiby. I didn`t imagine how many dogs have problems with their hearts, joints, hormones and so on. So crossed fingers for you and your little Tibby.
I agree with Valerie, I think a “technical” problem with breathing is more likely as heart/lungs (I don’t think she could run that fast with bad heart/lungs) and is quite common in the breed, I very often hear funny breathing with PyrSheps in my seminars, Le also does it when very very hot and La does it even much sooner, but she has collapsed trachea -- also not so rare in the breed. You might want to tell your vet about those two options to check it out.
Thank you Silvia, Valerie, Catalina and Nancy for these comments. Superlieb!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes and I listened very carefully to the sounds of Le and other dogs on the videos -- and it might be that it is something in the breed …………once more: Thank you!
Yes, it is a “technical” problem only -- and we are happy. Thank you once more for comments -- our vet was very interested to hear about these “may- be -- problems” in the breed. His opinion: no problems with the heart, may be some spasticity while breathing combined with hesitation in any form. We didn`t look at the trachea in special. May be that is something which could be done if the breathing gets worse.
So now this evening is video-time for RCs and -- if possible -- for the second sequence lesson 3.
Glad to hear the good news! Happy training! Still, you need to give her a break when she starts to breath too hard.
Birgit, ich hoffe, es geht alles gut beim Tierarzt, und wir denken an euch!!! Gute Besserung fuer Fine!
Get well soon!
Danke Jennifer.
Sorry, break -- too stupid!
Silvia
How come when I “log out” and I watch “comments” you still can see the video of Birgit and Fine? (So other people -who are not in our class- can see it too?) Didn’t she “hide” it on youtube?
Jonina
PS: Yeeaaah we got our first RC lesson!!!! 😀
Obviously not… Both “unlisted” or “public” options are possible to be used for videos for this class. Happy running!
But we clicked “unlisted”. We did every thing just the same way as every time.
So yeah, we still haven’t done the sequences. Would it be Ok if I saved the little drawings, so we can work on them this winter? Hopefully someday we will be able to do them.
We are just doing things that Tibby likes to do -- since I don’t have my hotdog/peanut butter bribes 🙂
Tibby loves to run on the plank. She will go walk and sit on it by herself, if it is sitting out in the yard. If you make it through the boring running on a plank -- you will see Tibby bite me in the rear a couple times! She gets crazy after she has a bath. And even though she’s playing her teeth are sharp!
How do I get her ON the teeter? She’s banging it, but I didn’t understand the next step in the video. When the teeter gets high enough will the dog just jump on to push the teeter down?
Looks like Tibby will need some more baths to get the right attitude! That was really good idea to use the after-bath time for some agility training! Biting will go away once she knows obstacles better and you can redirect her focus to obstacles. For now, you can try to redirect her teeth into a tug toy 🙂 As she seems to like the plank, it was very good idea to include the tunnel into that game. You could also put a jump 5m after the plank and throw a ball over it to make jumps fun too.
To get her to jump on a teeter, lower it back down, almost to the ground first, bring her from the side (as I bring Bu in the video) and use your verbal for jumping on things or lure her on. Once she gets four feet on, you can start to raise it again.
And yes, sure you can run the sequences later!
Hi, Silvia.
Is this better with the sequence?
Yeap, better. But keep working on sends to one jump and figure 8s to keep him sharp and tight 🙂
Hi everyone,
Here is my lesson 3 video. I numbered the clips with the monthday-clipnumber for easy reference.
Part 2 -- sequence. I noticed that said less as time went on. I left in the try with the bar down as it might be interesting to see how she turns without jumping. My favourite is 0820-11. Nessa loves tunnels so at the beginning I was really trying to call her away from the wrong end of the tunnel (I also tried it first with Taari and she needed more tiks and zaps to turn tighter). It was hot so I gave Nessa a bit of a rest before the final try.
Part 3 -- line of jumps. I forgot to say “go on” when she wasn’t turning. On 0804-08 she back jumps the last jump. Good that she can turn so well but not good that she back jumped.
Teeter -- I had the camera in a bad position at first (sorry my back is mostly to the camera). I don’t think that we have done enough slamming of doors. She started offering to turn around and face the other way on 0804-12. So I tried starting her facing the other way in 0804-13. 0804-15 and 0804-16 are what I have done previous to this class -- not letting it fall completely on its own. My instructor usually controls the board so I am not sure if I was doing it right on my own. I think that I may have been controlling it more than what my instructor is.
Actually, back jumping is always a sign of not-so-good turn -- if a dog lands correctly, with the body turned in the right direction and close to the wing, he actually can’t back jump. Nessa’s turns are mostly good, but this one was actually somewhat wider, she jumps straight, slips some when turning and can then back jump. If you for example see how she jumps at 1:13 (as that cap is really good), you can see she lands so much to the right that she couldn’t take that jump again.
And yes, that’s how I used to teach the teeter too, but now prefer to do tons of slamming first and then go from there as they learn to push it down more actively (and to really love it!) that way as when you only ask them to come till the end and wait. But that’s o.k. too, of course.
Cik&cap sequence got really good by the end. The first time, she is somewhat wide, but you’re very late with your cues the first time -- you then get much better and the last time you run it, it really looks great! Great obstacles focus and very tight!
Thanks for the comments! That does make sense about the back jumping. I tried the sequence in mirror image yesterday and I think that I was better with my commands. I will work on lots of slamming with both Nessa and Taari. Taari sometimes barely tips the teeter before jumping off the side 🙁 so I want to make sure that Nessa learns to love the slamming.