And here comes your last list! If you have question on it, please post till 11th June, we'll then take a break from 11th June to 25th June as I'm away and I think many could use a "catch-up-break" anyway 🙂 Then I'll be advising on your videos for one more week and in July, you're hopefully all graduating (see below)!
1. add duration and distractions to heeling – try it in different environments, reward a lot there, but apart from that, start adding more duration, reward every couple of steps with a small reward first, then do a really long distance and big jackpot for it – then a couple of steps for a small reward and long distance for a great reward again – vary it a lot for them to be able to see the pattern that the longer there is no reward, the better!
2. pick up the object to hug it – if the dog can already hold an object independently, put it on the floor and see if he can solve the problem and pick it up with a muzzle to get a hold of it with a paw
3. get a ball for kids, hold it with your feet so that it doesn’t move too much at first and click for front legs on – then release your feet a little bit so that it starts to move and the dog needs to balance on it. Now click for little steps on the ball, the final goal is the dog walking ahead with hind feet on the ground and front feet rolling the ball. Great for balance and coordination and for getting used to objects moving under the feet.
4. “sit up” to “stand up” and back and “down” to “sit up” and back – great for strength in the back, especially important for those who will be doing agility. Down to sit up and back should go easy, use a hand signal together with your verbal cues. First, reward even if the dog goes into sit for a second, but then try to get rid of it and go for direct transitions from one position to another. Sit up to stand up is easy too, you can use a lure for that one. Going back to sit up (without falling in sit first) is hard, so offer your hand as a support so that the dog can lean on it and then click for any knee bending until actually going into sit up. This is conditioning exercise, so you can help some more with lures if necessary, but as always – don’t do it so much that the dog would be sore after, you need to build muscle and balance gradually.
5. another great warming up exercise to stretch the dog before the run: spins to left&right and figure 8 forward. I teach it with a nose touch, putting a hand for a nose touch on the right spot (somewhere at the dog’s hip) to get a spin, then getting more&more spins in the same direction in a row, fading the hand and putting it on verbal cue left &right – very useful also on a course! I also do figure 8 forward with a nose touch, putting a hand so that the dog comes between the legs, rewarding at the side and then again the other direction. Fade the hand then into hand signal and then completely, using just a verbal cue. I simply use cik&cap.
And yes, sure, that nose targeting is almost as luring and if you wanted, you can also shape it instead. I will sometimes lure as sometimes, it is the easiest way to the goal. I never lure with a puppy because I want them to understand the concept of shaping first because many things simply can’t be taught by luring, so at one point, you need a dog who will offer behaviors. If you always help with easy tricks and then count on simply going to shaping when needed, you’ll get in trouble. But I don’t have a problem with going the other way around: first only shape, but later on do some luring or targeting when teaching something like figure 8, spins or sit up to stand up.
6. limping: click for one paw in the air (front or rear, whatever you prefer), add a little bit duration and then start clicking for any movements or weight shift of other 3 legs. Shape towards a real step and slowly add more&more to get limping on front/rear foot.
You again have 2 weeks to work on those exercises and post videos to comment and give suggestions for improvements - but with 2 weeks break in between, when I'm away. After that, your very last assignment before graduating puppy class is to make a video of everything you learned in this class – without training sessions as such, but finished version of tricks, some breakthrough moments, some playing, city walking and everything else you did with your dog for this class (using what you already taped or taping some more). If you allow, I will then publish your videos on my website. Those videos will be your graduation work, you will get a “LoLaBuLand puppy class graduate” certificate and as a gift, a download link to a training DVD of your choice (see the training videos website to choose one).
For everybody asking for “advanced puppy class” – I will try to think of a good program as it was so cool to work with you that I would sure love to see some more of your dogs in the future 
But I think that won’t be doable before autumn, so the plan is to hopefully open advanced tricks class in October. But there is Agility Foundation class starting end of June – I hope to see you there!
Hello Silvia,
For now I hang a video with one of the exercises this week, this is the figure 8. I started teaching it to touch his nose in his hand, and after a few sessions, and more or less understand the order. I leave here …. the rest when I get more advanced I will hang … I will continue to enjoy teaching to Obelix ….. 😀
Wow, that’s great!!! Without any help! Great job!
Nice job and very cute!
Hoo boy, this is a lot to work on now! I just made a list of all the stuff we’ve worked on for this class for the graduation video, and starred the stuff that still needs lots of work, or we haven’t even gotten to it yet! I need to take fresh video of our progress tomorrow and then post a video update. Every time I get lazy about recording our sessions, then I’m reluctant to post the videos I do have because they don’t actually show our current progress. 😉 So tomorrow I will record and post fresh videos.
Silvia, I’d also like to add my voice to the chorus of people thanking you for running this class. Dragon and I had our first agility lesson today and the instructor was very impressed by his body awareness and fitness, and it’s all thanks to you!! 😀
That’s great to hear! 🙂 And yes, I know the video problem, I only get to editing when it’s all old already 🙂 However, I won’t be on internet tomorrow anymore… No luck with fresh videos, huh…
Hi Silvia,
Here are a couple of tricks from lesson 6. Elsa already did the forward fig. 8 so I’ve been working with my Bernese on this trick & have included a clip of her training. The sit up to down has been going well--still working on the sit up to stand up.
Also included another clip of backward fig. 8. I tried doing this without stepping back to see if Elsa would turn more as she was backing which she has been doing fairly consistently now. The trouble is I get so excited that she made it through that I keep rewarding her when she is facing me 🙂 so the outside turns are a bit rough. I’ll have to work on remembering what you said about rewarding her when she is next to me. 🙂
Thanks.
Wow, sit up to down and back is going great! Love how she crashes into down 🙂 Almost there with figure 8 backwards! Time to slowly fade the hands now! 🙂 -- Just make the same gestures more up in the air and then minimalise them. Nice to see a Bernese at work too!
Hi Silvia,
Hoping this is a good size ball for Wylie (video), he picked this up quickly.
For the hugging of the pole… I try to get the pole close to him but he moves away. So, can I get him to stay closer with my placement of reward? Tips?
Success with bowl in bowl by putting the treats in bowl for the reward. That works great 🙂 Thanks Sara and Wylie
Wow, what a great ball rolling! This size is good for him yes, but as you’ll master it in no time, you can then also try it with a tennis ball! 🙂 Great to hear bowl in bowl is going great too! When teaching pole hugging, I actually don’t put them in any position and don’t move pole at all, but shape them to come closer enough to hug it. -- Many dogs feel uncomfortable when the pole comes to them, but have no problem getting to the pole on their own 🙂
Hello Silvia, I leave here the progress so far with the ball and other exercises that I am starting with Obelix … to continue working and enjoying …. 😀
Wow, he is doing GREAT, especially as all those exercises are harder with bigger dogs as with small ones! But he sure has great balance and strength already! I see he can also go to stand up from a sit up now -- that’s a great start! Going down is even harder, so take it slowly! Great job!
Ok, nobody to video us today, when is the deadline for last chance video watch before the break? Do you have any idea what the time difference is from CA? Are you a day ahead or behind us?
Her 2 leg side stand is getting great, so the problem is I can’t get her to limp & lift one front foot. She is trying to limp with both side legs up.
In waiting for her to get her back leg down, I am getting great 2 legged stands. Help? Waiting it out is getting frustrating. You said not to ask for paw, should I do a paw touch on a paper target to get her started?
I will look and she what date & time your web site says after I post this.
On the ball she offered her full circle pivot, but she goes way to fast.
Still having problems with the circle around leg post. She is fine if I reward & throw the treat away from me like you said. But when I try to get 2 circles she stops and turns the other way or offers a 2 sided stand.
We’re 8 hours before you, so I was gone already, but am all back now! For the limping: no problem, you can teach her limping on both side legs then! I had the same problem with Bu, she knew to limp on front foot, but when I tried rear foot, she offered both feet up. So we just went with that, who cares about the original plan if you get something even better! 🙂 For circling the object, go for one and a half circle then… Throw treats at unpredictable places and have her going around, click&rewarding unpredictably so that she keeps going in anticipation of another treat -- see the long discussion some participants had on that topic.
Have a great vacation, Silvia! Your photo is SO stinking adorable! We will work hard while you are away. Enjoy!
Kristin, Da Vinci , Cash and Callie 😀
Am so sorry I haven’t been following the class. Is it still possible for me to train and upload videos for feedback in July?
Sure, send whatever you have 🙂
Hi classmate,
Would you know any websites that sell toys for dogs like chasing, tugging, thinking toys that are well done.
Thank you,
Céline
My favorites are…
http://www.cleanrun.com
http://www.genuinedoggear.com (Callie’s favorite is the Super King Tug)
http://www.dogdreamstoys.com (Da Vinci LOVES the bunny stick she makes)
Hope that helps.
Kristin
Hi,
I also love the websites Kristin listed and have bought toys from them. Maia and Chinook especially like dogdreamstoys.com. The other website that is wonderful and will custom make tug toys that are very durable is from Crash Test toys.
http://www.axxent.ca/~crasher/
Maia has her favourite toy from there -- a orange ball at the end of a real sheepskin tug on a bungee cord!
As for thinking games, I love the Nina Ottosson games! I have several but most of them Maia and Chinook figured out very quickly. The one that really keeps them working for a while is the Dog Trubble Wood. Also the Dog Domino Wood keeps Maia busy because she has a harder time using her paws to move the pieces. Most of her games however my two figured out quickly. I do recommend the above two however 🙂 (Oh, and I prefer the wood ones, the plastic ones aren’t as good as the wood at all except for the Pyrminds! These are great much better than the Kong knock-offs)
http://www.nina-ottosson.com/Dog-2.php
I hope that helps,
Ania
Maia’s toy sounds cool. I’ll have to check that out. We love the Nina Ottosson games too. Also. Canine Genius Leo & Mike linkable food toys are good for keeping the pups busy. http://www.caninegenius.com/
Kristin
I will check that out. Does the food come out of them easily? My two have the Nina Ottosson Pyramids and a toy called the Tug-a-Jug. They love them and the treats are not easily dispensed so it takes them both a while to get all the treats out.
Here’s a video of them with the tug-a-jugs that I took over a year ago:
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and one with the pyramids:
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What I like about these games is it makes them think and work at getting the treats out, especially the DogTrubble game. I like to see their little brains spinning and thinking just like when we are shaping tricks! That is why I love this class so much.
I’ve been doing some surfing and found this website -- full of toys that keep them working at getting treats. I’m thinking of trying a few.
http://www.buygentleleader.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/toys/busybuddy
I don’t remember where you are, but many of these are is pet stores here…do you have access to seeing them. Some are ok, but most would be too easy for your dogs I think. I have the twist and treat…it’s ok, but not nearly as fun as the toys you already have.
Ok, they are too cute. Reminds me of Cash (not sure who is who). There’s just something about a Sheltie! 😀
I like the Nina Ottosson Pyramids too. Haven’t tried the jugs yet. I think your dogs would like the Canine Genius toys. Just make sure to get multiple so you can link them up…the more you connect the harder. You can make different configurations and the treats fall between the toys while they play. I also fill mine up with other good stuff and freeze in the summer. One toy would be too easy for your dogs since they already know how to play with these types of toys. And they are fun for playing fetch or tug with too…bounce in crazy directions.
I haven’t tried DogTrubble. We have Tornado, DogFighter and Casino.
Are you taking Foundations?
Kristin
Hi Kristin,
Thank you for your suggestions. I will definitely get multiple Canine Genius toys. I was just looking on KarenPryor’s web site and she has them and the buster cube (which has a maze inside it so the treats have to go through the maze BEFORE they come out)
I have the Plastic Dog Twister (it’s ok, but I would prefer the wood one because the small plastic bones are impossible for them to pick up), the DogFinder Plastic (too easy), Dog Fighter Wood(too easy too), Dog Turbo Wood (they use their long noses to get the treats out instead of the pegs LOL) , Dog Domino (great for Maia who does not like to use her paws, too easy for Chinook though) and the Dog Trubble (my favourite). I wanted to try the Casino -- how do you like it?
Yes I am taking the Foundations class! I am having too much fun with these classes not to take them! Are you?
We have Buster Cube. It’s good for Callie and Da Vinci, but frustrates Cash. If I give it to Callie outside, she noses it all over the yard at high speed and then when the cube is empty she has to go searching the yard for kibble. THAT takes awhile!!!! Casino is hard for dogs who don’t like to use their mouth to remove pegs/ pull. That’s why Dog Fighter is good for us. They like to use their paws more than their mouths. The board itself isn’t very heavy so I have to hold it for them a lot.
Glad we will be in Foundations together.
Kristin
What size of Buster Cube would you recommend for shelties?
The Casino in wood is on my list. Glad to know that it is a harder game for them to figure out. 🙂
I’d get the mini for Shelties. The regular one is pretty cumbersome for a small dog. I think that’s why Cash abandons mine. Should try the small one for him. I also have a bob-a-lot by Starmark…that’s another fun one, but might not be challenging enough for your pups. It’s nice and simple and you can adjust the holes for treat dispensing. I use the large size for all three dogs…no need to go small for Shelties.
Hi girls,
Thank you so much for your toys/games ideas ! I’ll buy some this week-end based on your comments.
Karmen and I are in the foudations class also. We’ll be together ! I’m looking forward, it’ll be so much fun.
See you soon,
Céline
I couldn’t resist and already bought many toys from cleanrun.
I’ll let you know how much fun we’ll get !!!
Thanks
Céline
Hi Silvia!
I have a question about teaching left and right directionals. I’ve been told by a few people now that some dogs do not translate well from a spin to turns and to not teach Maia this way. Have you heard this? I definitely need to teach Maia left and right for the DW and I do not want to mess her up. I was told to teach it with the dog between my legs and then tapping them on the side and rewarding when they turn their heads in the correct direction and then moving in that direction etc. Problem is Maia will NOT let me hold her -- she runs and hides for the rest of the day, so that method is out for me. Someone else said that they taught it with jumps on the flat -- having the dog jump over the left or right jump and repeating the directional command. If you think that the spin method works well and she will be able to translate that left/right mean turn in that direction and not spin in that direction, I am going to go with it 🙂 . Thanks you.
I teach left&right that way for 15 years and all dogs did the translation -- some sooner, some later, but hey, who cares 🙂 The dogs at first either ignore it when you say it on a course or are somewhat confused why are you calling their spin cue in the middle of the course -- but I’m never afraid of confusion -- that’s how they learn. I love to teach it as a spin as it’s fun, useful also as a warm up trick and transfers nicely into agility. To make the transfer easier, you can start using it on courses right now -- saying it any time you know the dog will be turning left/right (because of your body language), every time when playing with her and knowing which way she will be turning because of how you throw a ball etc.
I definitely wouldn’t want to teach it on jumps, as it requires too much drilling on obstacles for my taste and I started Lo with the other method you explain, but she didn’t like it, so I switched to spinning and love this method ever since.