So... Here is the plan. As agility is easier to show as to explain, you'll be getting your homeworks in video form. You'll always get some new assignments, but you need to keep practicing the old ones too - we'll be checking back on those here and there, so don't forget to keep working on those!
This class program is very extensive and after discussing it with 1st class students, I decided to give you some more time for last three lessons: first three you'll get every 2 weeks and last three every 3 weeks and we'll also make a 2-week break somewhere in between to let you catch up. As always, taking things slowly is always better and takes you to the goal faster as rushing things up, that's why I'm giving you more time for your homeworks.
1. restrained send to cik/cap - the purpose of this exercise is to play a nice chasing game, while teaching great sends, distance work and commitment - see how early I can start running in the other direction when sending Le to the jump.
Things to pay attention to:
- height: If you only did cik&cap on other objects so far, start with a jump stanchion now, but without the bar first: and then put the bar VERY low - max. 5cm (2 inches) for smaller dogs, 10cm (4 inches) for BC size and bigger. You can then add some height every 5 sessions: 3cm up for small dogs, 5cm for bigger dogs - SLOWER with young dogs! If you already did cik&cap with more height, do this exercise on your normal height, send a video and I will tell you if it's o.k. or you need to make it lower.
- distance: Start the dog very close to the jump first and then further&further every next try to slowly add distance. If the dog turns back to you (as Le does once in my video) or waits for you, start closer again and add distance more gradually.
- angle: Note from which angle I bring Le to the jump and in which direction I run away to reward. The purpose is to teach them to jump close to the stanchion, NOT in the middle of the bar! That's why I always do this side approach FIRST and do lots of it before trying any straight approaches. Check the angle again as it's not the best angle to see and many people do it coming to the jump facing it and then running parallel to it away and then the dogs are back-jumping the jump. You want to come to the jump from the side (nearing the stanchion/wing first) and then run away perpendicular to it.
- speed: You can't expect much speed with multi-warps, but you definitely want it now. Restrain the dog, wait for a good pull, let him go and run away for them to chase you&the toy. Make sure the dog is rewarded when still moving - don't stop and reward: run and reward! 🙂
2. If the first part goes well, you can also do some figure 8s + chase it game: it's the same game, only that you use two jumps now and run from one to another, sometimes still rewarding the first wrap, sometimes 4th, sometimes 2nd, sometimes 5th, sometimes 3rd... Note the angle of the jumps (side approach again!) and the distance between them: you want BIG distance to get good speed - something like 10m/33'. Again, you want the jumps under this angle to make sure the dog is jumping close to the stanchion, not in the middle of the bar. DON'T do figure 8s on one jump, it teaches the dog to jump in the middle!
3. restrained send to a tunnel (obstacle discrimination!) + come to hand vs. go game
Restrain the dog very close to the tunnel, as he is pulling towards it, say "tunnel, tunnel" to them: pulling in the direction of that thing is what you want when you say "tunnel" - and then let them go. Slowly add distance. Later on, you can add more obstacles (jumps&contact) close to the tunnel to make the discrimination harder: only say "tunnel" when the dog is pulling in the right direction, you can feel it if you hold him. You do the same with jumps: call cik&cap and release to the jump that is first the only thing around and then add tunnels closer&closer. The goal is teaching obstacle discrimination AND actively pulling towards obstacles you call (as opposed to hanging with you, waiting for you to take them all the way to each obstacle).
To train even more things at the time, when the dog is out of the tunnel, either call to hand and when he is at your side, either do a front cross or a shoulder pull (see the video) and reward for closeness - OR say your magic "run FAST" word and throw a toy ahead when the dog is catching up with you - meaning that you're moving in both situations, do NOT stand still when you send!
To make it even more challenging and train three things at the time 🙂 you can also add more tunnels and jumps around, like this:
Try to change it some every time, like bringing the other tunnel closer, or curving it sometimes, or using a jump instead, and also try running by it (to the other entry maybe) while calling to hand so that the dog needs to stay with you even when you’re actually moving towards the tunnel/jump and similar.
4. independent weaves
If you haven't started weaves yet, set 12 poles in two rows (left row must always be 60cm/24inches closer to you when you stand in front of the channel in order to teach them correct entries), at least 1m apart, restrain the dog at least 3m before the channel, throw the toy through and release. As the dog is running to his toy, sometimes just stand back, sometimes run after him, on both sides, sometimes far, sometimes close, sometimes run and stop, sometimes run and turn etc. The purpose is to teach the dog to ignore your body language when in the weaves and complete the task. Slowly switch to a static toy 4m after the channel, bringing the two rows closer&closer as you practise independent performance (I'm using bowls with treats with Le as she isn't too excited about dead toys... - but I quickly switched to a toy, thrown after she is out then to get more speed). See the video for some ideas on what to do when the dog is in a channel. If the dog already knows the weaves, send the video of how independent it is. If it's not, go back to the channel. With puppies, you can start the channel work, but only play with it max. twice a week, to not progress too fast as you don't want to close it to the point that requires real weaving before the dog is fully grown. But you can do a lot of work on independence and entries without doing any real weaving.
Have fun!
Ok, so here is my first attempt to add a video (never done it before) so I hope it works 🙂
Here are Kiss and me doing only cik/cak for the first time on agility obsticle -- we have done it around other objects till now. I think is going ok, she has the cak turn a little bit wider than the cik turn and we need to add some distance in the next steps.
Yes, definitely going great! She drives really well out of the turn to that toy! Slowly add more distance and start testing her commitment and I think you can also already set low bars.
I’m not quite sure what the cueing for the multi-wraps should look like…Is it a verbal only? Thanks)
No, I help with hands too -- coming in the next lesson 🙂
I was wondering if we can get a drawing of how to place the poles for beginning the channel weaves? I’ve never tried the method and I’m a bit worried about getting it wrong! I only have access to “loose” poles to stick in the ground.
Oh, there is a picture somewhere that somebody drew out -- just check other posts and you’ll find it!
I’ve searched all 6 pages on this lesson for the drawing but can’t find it? Could it be in the intro?
Hm, yes, it could be… Somebody with a Shetie who doesn’t like metal base drew it…
I think maybe this is the picture you are looking for! 😉
Yes, exactly! Thank you!!! 🙂
with this method, hwo do you teach entry? we have the running back and forth through the channel in a strait line down well. working on more independence every session. should i be altering the entry angles from straight on? just start with very shallow angles, reward good attempts, restart incorrect attemps?
Exactly. Scroll through the videos some, you’ll see I keep saying to add more&more extreme angles and you can see some very cool entries on wide open channel already. I start adding angles the 2nd session, very mild to start with of course, but keep adding difficulties and cover all the options on a channel already, meaning the dog can handle any entry and distraction by the time I close it.
I don´t know how to do CIK/CAP if Bubu don´t want to leave me. So I tried it with tunel and jump only straight. Is that a good way?
Jumping straight to a toy lure is not very connected to cik&cap, so I don’t think it will transfer, but it doesn’t hurt if you do some of that too. Did you try cik&cap from a restrain -- will she pull to a jump? Restraining to a tunnel is sure going well, so just continue like that, slowly adding distance (and then do the same with the jump) -- and don’t forget to sometimes say go and throw and sometimes call to hand and do a front cross or a shoulder pull, top train two things at the same time.
I did´t try CIK/CAP with restrain because I don t believe she will pull but I will try it tomorrow. Yes, tunel looks pretty good, I will continue.
So, I should hold Bubu in front of the jump (like on your video) and wait until she start to pull. Should I say something? And what if she will not pull?
If she doesn’t pull to the jump, practice a restrain with a tunnel for now and separately from that at home: teach her to pull as an automatic response to you grabbing the harness. You can also try pulling her back and see if you get resistance -- might work just as well for the jump for now!
Here are our first efforts -- filmed earlier in the week. Of course I managed to get the angles wrong on those zig and zag sends. We will fix those today when we get to the field. We are not doing restrains because of her issues with that -- so I am still experimenting to see what gets her moving.
We spend a lot of our practice time with zig -- clockwise is the difficult side for her. Zag -- counter-clockwise -- seems to come more naturally.
She is sure happy to play! Just make sure you make it very clear when the game starts and when the exercise is over, so that she doesn’t think stopping at the course and barking at you is what you want: so always reward first, then come back and start over again -- don’t just keep stopping and going back and fourth without a reward. Try to find a toy she would really like or put treats in an old sock, put it on string and have her chase it: the game starts with the send, ends when she catches the toy and meantime, you keep moving all the time, no stopping. It then starts again when you exchange the toy for a treat. And yes, try to practice angles that promote a full wrap and do a front cross at each for now. If she likes tunnels, you could start with a tunnel instead of a restrain -- the tunnel would give you the same effect: more starting speed and easier for you to leave early and make her really chase you.
Got it! The tunnel idea sounds like a winner. We will try next time we are at the field. 🙂
Hi Silvia and classmates,
here is Kix doing cik&cap exercise the first time on agility jump.
Cool, he certainly shows very good understanding of circling the object, focuses on it well, stays close and does it very independently!!! To avoid this misunderstanding with going through the wing, close the gap somehow: you could simply put silver tape over it. It’s confusing to him why inbetween is not good and as a problem will go away with more height anyway, I really wouldn’t be stopping him for trying to be good… It’s demotivating even for me, watching it! Also, see some videos on how to approach the jump, you’re always setting him for the easiest approach -- we’re working on the difficult, side approach for now.
Thanks for your advice. But I really have not enough space in my garden. I will try difficulty side approaches next time with more space.
“I really wouldn’t be stopping him for trying to be good… It’s demotivating even for me, watching it!” What do you mean exactly? I understand your words, but can’t see it. Help me to understand it, please
To get more room, set a jump into a corner where you had a tunnel, with one wing touching a corner and the other wing will be free to do cik&cap on! And well, what I meant was that the reason he was coming through a gap was because he wanted to be an extra good boy and make it extra hard and when you stopped for that, as you would for a mistake, I think it was demotivating -- a kind of correcting him for trying to be good. He doesn’t seem soft enough to care 🙂 but still, maybe a wrong message to get to him -- like saying to him to not try too hard to be tight?
Thanks for explaining. I really do not want to demotivate him 🙂
I think no worries here 🙂 , he doesn’t look very soft, but it can sure be confusing as he sure was just trying to do it right!
It is so great to watch everyone’s videos and then to read Silvia’s comments and suggestions for each team. I’m picking up so many good training tips and taking many notes so I don’t forget them all! This is an awesome class….as I knew it would be!!!!
Yes, I love we have all those different levels and all those different problems -- we can all learn from it! That’s why I definitely recommend watching as many videos as possible and reading all the comments!
That’s what I love about online classes! First of all I learn through watching what I’m REALLY doing instead of what I think I’m doing. Then I have the time to really watch others and certainly learn alot through Silvia’s comments, and I can read and re-read comments regarding my own performance and what I need to do to improve. In a real class I am often too pre-occupied with my own dog to really watch and absorb what others are doing and what is being said.
agreed, these classes are a treasure! Thanks for making us rich, Silvia and everybody who contributes :)!
Kix (8 month) reach puberty now 😉 I could not train with him in an unfenced area, ’cause he will running away -- follows other dogs or bitches in heat… Hope we will getting over it very soon. So I did training in my very little garden today.
He is full of energy, very enthusiastic, fast and loves tunnels…. Quite the opposite of Zora…
Certainly no problems with sends to a tunnel! But don’t forget to always do something specific: at the beginning you’re just waiting for him with a toy… Always do either a go or a front cross or a shoulder pull -- not so easy with limited space though… Maybe you could set a tunnel on a path and use a grass for running?
In the beginning of the vid was he sending himself alone to the tunnel not I. He is sometimes very independent of me and take the tunnel three or fourtimes again and again. So I lure him with a toy. Would you let him doing this “tunnelgame” or should I stop him?
I would certainly stop him when he releases from a stay to go to the tunnel. I would also stop him for taking the tunnel when you call to hand. I wouldn’t stop him for taking the tunnel if he does when he is not under a cue, like when you take a toy and he immediately goes into a tunnel on his own. But if he is under a cue (come or stay), then don’t allow him take a tunnel.
Here’s my first video of my Mini Aussie Yoshi working on her restrained sends to cik&cap. At home we worked a little with a PVC pipe attached to a base. This is our first lesson with an agility jump. Next time I’ll name the behaviour and do more retrained sends. Then my next step is to add distance. This video was filmed by 7 year old Kenzie. He couldn’t understand why the jump was so low. After we finished I explained what I was doing.
HAHAHA, I loved Kenzie’s running commentary! I see “sports commentator” in his future 🙂
LOL! There was even more commentary but I couldn’t include eveything! Levi was into too. At one point he was cheering with amazing intensity. It was like we placed first at the Worlds!! LOL!
Thanks!!! I’m very happy with lesson 1. My next video will be on Monday or Tuesday. I have a lot to work on. 🙂
what a beautiful mini aussie! and great job, Ally 🙂
Ally, your dog AND kids are adorable!!! What a team effort! Did the kids name her Yoshi?
Looks good: fast and tight!!! Try the side approach next time and yes, add a verbal first and then more distance. But sure looks like a great start!
Hi Silvia, hi classmates here is our fun with the tunnel.Btw Silvia, look who is JUST watching us !?
Great, she is sure having fun!!! And Bono is sure being a good boy! 🙂 Amy is doing great, great speed and enthusiasm and responding to go vs. come really well, staying really close on comes. You can slowly add more distance to the sends.
Thanks Silvia, yes we will try more distance as this would be propably really hard for her but with more practise she will have more obstacles focus.
Amy was at the beginning confused to run with me on the right side 🙂
(just heeling on the left side her hole life ) What a smart girl !
Looks like FUN!!
Yes Catalina, we sure had FUN 🙂
Go Amy!
It’s going to take a while to get used to seeing Bono watch from the side lines!
Gabi-I CANNOT believe Amy is 9!!!!! She looks just as young and FASTER as Pru!!! I just love her already! (Sorry Bono-love you too of course!) 🙂
Kelly, thanks for your sweet comment!!