So... Here is the plan. As agility is easier to show as to explain, you'll be getting your homeworks in video form. You'll always get some new assignments, but you need to keep practicing the old ones too - we'll be checking back on those here and there, so don't forget to keep working on those!
This class program is very extensive and after discussing it with 1st class students, I decided to give you some more time for last three lessons: first three you'll get every 2 weeks and last three every 3 weeks and we'll also make a 2-week break somewhere in between to let you catch up. As always, taking things slowly is always better and takes you to the goal faster as rushing things up, that's why I'm giving you more time for your homeworks.
1. restrained send to cik/cap - the purpose of this exercise is to play a nice chasing game, while teaching great sends, distance work and commitment - see how early I can start running in the other direction when sending Le to the jump.
Things to pay attention to:
- height: If you only did cik&cap on other objects so far, start with a jump stanchion now, but without the bar first: and then put the bar VERY low - max. 5cm (2 inches) for smaller dogs, 10cm (4 inches) for BC size and bigger. You can then add some height every 5 sessions: 3cm up for small dogs, 5cm for bigger dogs - SLOWER with young dogs! If you already did cik&cap with more height, do this exercise on your normal height, send a video and I will tell you if it's o.k. or you need to make it lower.
- distance: Start the dog very close to the jump first and then further&further every next try to slowly add distance. If the dog turns back to you (as Le does once in my video) or waits for you, start closer again and add distance more gradually.
- angle: Note from which angle I bring Le to the jump and in which direction I run away to reward. The purpose is to teach them to jump close to the stanchion, NOT in the middle of the bar! That's why I always do this side approach FIRST and do lots of it before trying any straight approaches. Check the angle again as it's not the best angle to see and many people do it coming to the jump facing it and then running parallel to it away and then the dogs are back-jumping the jump. You want to come to the jump from the side (nearing the stanchion/wing first) and then run away perpendicular to it.
- speed: You can't expect much speed with multi-warps, but you definitely want it now. Restrain the dog, wait for a good pull, let him go and run away for them to chase you&the toy. Make sure the dog is rewarded when still moving - don't stop and reward: run and reward! 🙂
2. If the first part goes well, you can also do some figure 8s + chase it game: it's the same game, only that you use two jumps now and run from one to another, sometimes still rewarding the first wrap, sometimes 4th, sometimes 2nd, sometimes 5th, sometimes 3rd... Note the angle of the jumps (side approach again!) and the distance between them: you want BIG distance to get good speed - something like 10m/33'. Again, you want the jumps under this angle to make sure the dog is jumping close to the stanchion, not in the middle of the bar. DON'T do figure 8s on one jump, it teaches the dog to jump in the middle!
3. restrained send to a tunnel (obstacle discrimination!) + come to hand vs. go game
Restrain the dog very close to the tunnel, as he is pulling towards it, say "tunnel, tunnel" to them: pulling in the direction of that thing is what you want when you say "tunnel" - and then let them go. Slowly add distance. Later on, you can add more obstacles (jumps&contact) close to the tunnel to make the discrimination harder: only say "tunnel" when the dog is pulling in the right direction, you can feel it if you hold him. You do the same with jumps: call cik&cap and release to the jump that is first the only thing around and then add tunnels closer&closer. The goal is teaching obstacle discrimination AND actively pulling towards obstacles you call (as opposed to hanging with you, waiting for you to take them all the way to each obstacle).
To train even more things at the time, when the dog is out of the tunnel, either call to hand and when he is at your side, either do a front cross or a shoulder pull (see the video) and reward for closeness - OR say your magic "run FAST" word and throw a toy ahead when the dog is catching up with you - meaning that you're moving in both situations, do NOT stand still when you send!
To make it even more challenging and train three things at the time 🙂 you can also add more tunnels and jumps around, like this:
Try to change it some every time, like bringing the other tunnel closer, or curving it sometimes, or using a jump instead, and also try running by it (to the other entry maybe) while calling to hand so that the dog needs to stay with you even when you’re actually moving towards the tunnel/jump and similar.
4. independent weaves
If you haven't started weaves yet, set 12 poles in two rows (left row must always be 60cm/24inches closer to you when you stand in front of the channel in order to teach them correct entries), at least 1m apart, restrain the dog at least 3m before the channel, throw the toy through and release. As the dog is running to his toy, sometimes just stand back, sometimes run after him, on both sides, sometimes far, sometimes close, sometimes run and stop, sometimes run and turn etc. The purpose is to teach the dog to ignore your body language when in the weaves and complete the task. Slowly switch to a static toy 4m after the channel, bringing the two rows closer&closer as you practise independent performance (I'm using bowls with treats with Le as she isn't too excited about dead toys... - but I quickly switched to a toy, thrown after she is out then to get more speed). See the video for some ideas on what to do when the dog is in a channel. If the dog already knows the weaves, send the video of how independent it is. If it's not, go back to the channel. With puppies, you can start the channel work, but only play with it max. twice a week, to not progress too fast as you don't want to close it to the point that requires real weaving before the dog is fully grown. But you can do a lot of work on independence and entries without doing any real weaving.
Have fun!
Hi Silvia and classmates! Can you tell I had the weekend off and the weather is nice? 😀
We did some more homework. I tried some harder entries with Spur. He did pretty well on the soft entries since he had already gone that direction. Switched sides today and he struggled a little getting into the channel idea that direction, but he worked it out OK. I wasn’t able to send him as far as I thought I would to get in front and run the other way, but still managed to get in front. I’ll work on sending more to those entries both ways. This was his first time seeing the channels for the hard side entries and he had to figure that out a bit.
I also did some right wraps, since I have not done any of those since the first video. He did OK, but I can see he needs more sessions going that way as his left wraps are now so much tighter/faster. 😀 I am trying to send from farther and farther. This is all such great work for him! (Roscoe had to make his appearance at the end!! :D)
Great job with the weaves! But yes, the left wraps were better now 🙂 Try to just mix some of both in each session and then just add some more in the direction where he looks wider.
OK, thanks! Yes, I will mix them in next time.
I have a question about our next homework. I don’t feel ready, LOL!! I have only done the tunnel sends homework twice, so I am sure that needs some more work before doing the little course? And we aren’t even doing figure 8’s, yet. Should I just stay at lesson 1 here until you tell me? This sure is a fast paced class!! 😛
I am SO pleased with how well Spur is doing!!! This is definitely such a great class for him!!!! He used to totally shut down if I ever had to re-do something, so I hardly ever did. I would just go do something else that was easier for him like some little trick or his RDW work, which he always loves!!! 😀 Now he can “fail” and then try again and seems to be just fine about it!!!!
I sure wish I had some way of softening my voice, but I am completely tone deaf and don’t hear how intense I am until I hear it on the video. Geez!!! I am going to try to work on that, but amazingly he seems to be OK with it. Good little guy!
Thanks again for all your feedback!!!
Well, I think intense is actually much better as mellow 🙂 You don’t need to master lesson 1 completely before trying lesson 2, but maybe still spend some sessions on lesson 1, try figure 8s and some more tunnel sends -- despite I think that part should be pretty easy for Spur!
Hahaha, well, glad to have your approval. Roscoe sure liked intense, so I am pretty good at it from all those years with him. 😛 I just think Little Spur is so soft I sound so demanding, but obviously he is getting OK about it. 😀
I have another question -- should I raise the bar? I’m sure not in any hurry, but it’s only about 3-4″? I just did a short session and he’s nearly as tight already going to the right. 😀 He sure has caught on to this game quickly! I jump him 12″ at trials, so that is our goal height. And should I keep it angled?
I would try a lesson 2 sequence on this height, but raise the bars some for multi-wraps and one jump sends.
Here is our today’s session.
I forget the collar, so I must improvise a restrain with my hand.
It is often the battle because she don’t want to release the polecat !!!
Cool, driving to the tunnel better and better. After the tunnel, try not to show her a toy right away (other than for the go!) and first have her come to you -- and then reward for staying close, circling with you, with an appearance of the toy. And well, not letting a toy go is certainly a better problem to have as not running after a toy! 🙂
Here is Fi’s weaves from two days ago. She drives to the bowls but really prefers I throw the ball.
Great independence and entries! You can certainly use a ball instead of food, I was only using bowls originally as I needed something static there to focus Le ahead and she doesn’t care about static toys too much.
Here is Fi’s latest session on Zig&Zag. This is the area where I’m least confident that we’re doing it right. She has done well with doing one wrap while I run away. On the multiple wraps, she seems to be wide especially to the right. And my figure 8’s…I don’t know if I’m on the right track or not,
I’m open for suggestions! 🙂
Here is some weave work focusing on harder entries and some proofing including me falling down on purpose. I had to tone down the falling so she could handle finishing. 🙂
The weaves are off set but not a whole lot. Should I begin to close them up more?
Thanks for your help.
Looks great! Maybe you can try some more entries from the difficult side (the side where they don’t go around the 1st pole, but need to find a gap) and once she masters those too, you’re pretty much finished with the weave project and you can just close the channel.
Great, she sure understands the multi-wraps great and she is very tight to the left -- lefts look just great! -- But yes, a bit wider to the right… She is actually landing nicely, in the right direction, but she does go further to the middle of the bar as ideally… Maybe you could try an angled pole to promote staying closer? You can also do some more stretches and spins to the right to make it easier for her to bend that way. Figure 8s look good -- your front crosses could be earlier, but her obstacle focus sure looks great!
She sure likes it when you run away! 🙂 Love the doberman bounce too!
Here’s a session on Cik Cap vs tunnel and discriminating which tunnel hole to enter. Overall very pleased. Will add more distance and speed next.
Looks good! You can next try with speedy approaches yes, for an extra challenge. Don’t forget on early cues, you were sometimes really too late with calling/cap for her to do it.
yeah, I sure noticed that sometimes. Will be more careful. One time called the tunnel a Zig. THAT’S not helpful! 🙂
I was wondering about that yes 🙂
We worked on our figure 8’s and they look better. Also introduced him to a low bar with cik/cap. The bar is at 4″ on one side and on the ground on the side he is going over it. Then a quick few times with the channels.
That sure looks good! I think you can raise the other end to 4″ next time too. Don’t forget to do something else when he is the channel every time! Also, no more easy entries, focus on adding more&more angle to the entries.
some tunnels, cik/cap, and weaves for session one
Cool, driving to tunnels really well and coming to hand and staying real close too! Really great come to hand! Since he is so good at coming to hand, do some more of “go” instead -- say go as he is exiting the tunnel and throw a ball ahead, BEFORE he looks at you (he needs to see a ball as he is exiting the tunnel). You could also include a jump before the tunnel as he drives to a tunnel so well and have him drive to a tunnel over the jump and then say go and throw a ball over the jump again, to practice extension and confidently going ahead on “go” vs. checking back with you. The same with weaves: add a jump before to teach him focusing on the next obstacle after the next, without checking back with you after each obstacle. Your movement makes it harder for him to focus on the entry, so definitely practice a lot of that, he needs to focus on an entry even when you are moving. Cik&caps look good, you could set a straight jump in the middle of well spread figure 8 next to practice driving to a wrap over an extension jump.
ok, too much travel for work lately, but here is some follow up for this lesson… I used a stationary toy rather than throwing it as he left the tunnel. I will re-do it if you think i should. Also, I jjust decided to lower the jumps for these repeat drills from 26inches (66cm) to 22inches (56 cm)… i’m not sure why!
jump to tunnel:
cik/cap figure 8 with a jump inbetween:
weave entries
thank you, this class is outrageously awesome!
Brian
Great forward focus this time, he drives really well to a static toy and also the tunnel. But yes, still tucking his legs under him, hm… I would try some different set ups to see if you can get him to stretch -- maybe he would stretch on a spread jump? -- Or if you set some jumps so close he would bounce them and then try spreading them further to see if he stretches more in order to still bounce them? Nice weaves even with you moving this time!
To help with extending rather than tucking, Should I lower bars even more, stay at 22″ or go back to 26″?
I thought he did pretty good extending over the middle jump in the figure 8 in the first and last reps, … the middle rep, not so much.
I’ve experimented with bouncing some… he’s pretty eager to add a stride instead of bouncing, even at low jump bars.
I’ll play with it as you suggest and send more video. This is the main thing for us, the jumping extended! Thank you so much for all this work.
You can try both heights and see what gives you a nicer form of a jump. I though lower is better, but noticed with my dogs they often didn’t stretch on lower bars completely -- but then started to with more height. Also, some dogs with RC extend the best after a DW, some dogs extend the best between two tunnels -- depends a lot on a dog. I try to always watch for it and then set situations that make them extend. It’s hard to get it with some dogs as it depends on their structure and flexibility, but I think he was extending before? If so, then it should be possible to get it back. A health check might be in order too. For bouncing, start at the distance he has to bounce and then spread the jumps VERY gradually, rewarding if he keeps bouncing. You can again try higher bars, might make more sense it’s better not to add a stride then.
here is an experiment with double jump and tunnel. some reps low, some full height.
Hm, yes, he seems too impressed by double jump, jumps too early and then tucks his legs… I think single jumps, set at the distance that would help him get closer to the jump, might work better. I noticed that even dogs that normally don’t stretch will stretch when they take off very late -- while early take off very often gives this technique…
a little bit with a tire and then a two jump bounce grid
I had never heard that before about the taking off correlating with tucking and taking off late with extending, but I think it makes sense.. even if they don’t tuck to clear the jump, the dog has to bring it’s back legs in eventually to land!
Do you have suggestions on set ups to get him to take off later? He sometimes likes to take off earlier than is necessary or helpful… a lot of talk about that here in the US, but no real clear direction on what to do…
Hi, here is our Cipy & cap with a toy progression:
One more:
You can include a bit longer clip with few more repetitions so that I can see some more. I think the approach in the first video was not good, that it was not from the side. Also, try to not wait for her, bending down -- just show the jump and run away and have her chase you.
And slalom during agility training.
Getting there! I like to vary entries and my position already at this stage, but I guess keeping her motivation up is the most important thing for now. Try to make it really fun, teach her to really pull on harness when you grab it, use extra exciting treats and maybe something like a pig ear that you could put on a string and have her chase it.
I tried to post my videos this morning but apparently something went wrong because they’re not there. I’ll try again. We’ve not had a lot of time to practice so we’re still just starting out. My tunnel:
and sending to a jump
Your videos were posted, I already commented them -- please take a ook where, maybe on introduction page?