So... Here is the plan. As agility is easier to show as to explain, you'll be getting your homeworks in video form. You'll always get some new assignments, but you need to keep practicing the old ones too - we'll be checking back on those here and there, so don't forget to keep working on those!
This class program is very extensive and after discussing it with 1st class students, I decided to give you some more time for last three lessons: first three you'll get every 2 weeks and last three every 3 weeks and we'll also make a 2-week break somewhere in between to let you catch up. As always, taking things slowly is always better and takes you to the goal faster as rushing things up, that's why I'm giving you more time for your homeworks.
1. restrained send to cik/cap - the purpose of this exercise is to play a nice chasing game, while teaching great sends, distance work and commitment - see how early I can start running in the other direction when sending Le to the jump.
Things to pay attention to:
- height: If you only did cik&cap on other objects so far, start with a jump stanchion now, but without the bar first: and then put the bar VERY low - max. 5cm (2 inches) for smaller dogs, 10cm (4 inches) for BC size and bigger. You can then add some height every 5 sessions: 3cm up for small dogs, 5cm for bigger dogs - SLOWER with young dogs! If you already did cik&cap with more height, do this exercise on your normal height, send a video and I will tell you if it's o.k. or you need to make it lower.
- distance: Start the dog very close to the jump first and then further&further every next try to slowly add distance. If the dog turns back to you (as Le does once in my video) or waits for you, start closer again and add distance more gradually.
- angle: Note from which angle I bring Le to the jump and in which direction I run away to reward. The purpose is to teach them to jump close to the stanchion, NOT in the middle of the bar! That's why I always do this side approach FIRST and do lots of it before trying any straight approaches. Check the angle again as it's not the best angle to see and many people do it coming to the jump facing it and then running parallel to it away and then the dogs are back-jumping the jump. You want to come to the jump from the side (nearing the stanchion/wing first) and then run away perpendicular to it.
- speed: You can't expect much speed with multi-warps, but you definitely want it now. Restrain the dog, wait for a good pull, let him go and run away for them to chase you&the toy. Make sure the dog is rewarded when still moving - don't stop and reward: run and reward! 🙂
2. If the first part goes well, you can also do some figure 8s + chase it game: it's the same game, only that you use two jumps now and run from one to another, sometimes still rewarding the first wrap, sometimes 4th, sometimes 2nd, sometimes 5th, sometimes 3rd... Note the angle of the jumps (side approach again!) and the distance between them: you want BIG distance to get good speed - something like 10m/33'. Again, you want the jumps under this angle to make sure the dog is jumping close to the stanchion, not in the middle of the bar. DON'T do figure 8s on one jump, it teaches the dog to jump in the middle!
3. restrained send to a tunnel (obstacle discrimination!) + come to hand vs. go game
Restrain the dog very close to the tunnel, as he is pulling towards it, say "tunnel, tunnel" to them: pulling in the direction of that thing is what you want when you say "tunnel" - and then let them go. Slowly add distance. Later on, you can add more obstacles (jumps&contact) close to the tunnel to make the discrimination harder: only say "tunnel" when the dog is pulling in the right direction, you can feel it if you hold him. You do the same with jumps: call cik&cap and release to the jump that is first the only thing around and then add tunnels closer&closer. The goal is teaching obstacle discrimination AND actively pulling towards obstacles you call (as opposed to hanging with you, waiting for you to take them all the way to each obstacle).
To train even more things at the time, when the dog is out of the tunnel, either call to hand and when he is at your side, either do a front cross or a shoulder pull (see the video) and reward for closeness - OR say your magic "run FAST" word and throw a toy ahead when the dog is catching up with you - meaning that you're moving in both situations, do NOT stand still when you send!
To make it even more challenging and train three things at the time 🙂 you can also add more tunnels and jumps around, like this:
Try to change it some every time, like bringing the other tunnel closer, or curving it sometimes, or using a jump instead, and also try running by it (to the other entry maybe) while calling to hand so that the dog needs to stay with you even when you’re actually moving towards the tunnel/jump and similar.
4. independent weaves
If you haven't started weaves yet, set 12 poles in two rows (left row must always be 60cm/24inches closer to you when you stand in front of the channel in order to teach them correct entries), at least 1m apart, restrain the dog at least 3m before the channel, throw the toy through and release. As the dog is running to his toy, sometimes just stand back, sometimes run after him, on both sides, sometimes far, sometimes close, sometimes run and stop, sometimes run and turn etc. The purpose is to teach the dog to ignore your body language when in the weaves and complete the task. Slowly switch to a static toy 4m after the channel, bringing the two rows closer&closer as you practise independent performance (I'm using bowls with treats with Le as she isn't too excited about dead toys... - but I quickly switched to a toy, thrown after she is out then to get more speed). See the video for some ideas on what to do when the dog is in a channel. If the dog already knows the weaves, send the video of how independent it is. If it's not, go back to the channel. With puppies, you can start the channel work, but only play with it max. twice a week, to not progress too fast as you don't want to close it to the point that requires real weaving before the dog is fully grown. But you can do a lot of work on independence and entries without doing any real weaving.
Have fun!
Silvia, when you say 2x2 promotes bouncing, do you mean two stepping?
Yes. An of course, small dogs need to do that. But we had some big dogs in a 1st class who were really struggling with two stepping and were then very happy to learn about single stepping, thanks to the channel.
Right, I know my dogs have to do it, I just wasn’t sure if that’s what you meant. Why do you think it causes that?
And another question, Bun Bun is having a wee bit of trouble understanding to stay in the channel. She does already know how to weave (just not very well) so I think she wonders if she’s supposed to weave one side of it. I have some wires, should I put those on until she understands? She’s very soft so I feel she needs a method with a very, very low failure rate, at least until she gains more confidence.
Well, I know why channel fixes the problem 🙂 The reason I like channel so much is because it teaches them to run through with a minimal possible left/right movement. V on the other hand often teaches them to jump left&right. Even when the dog is two-stepping, it’s a difference when they still stay close to the poles vs. jump in and out more as necessary -- what V can give you, especially if used from the start, very widely open (it doesn’t hurt if you use poles angled out just a bit).
Did you try to set the channel pretty wide, set a bowl with food at the end and race Bun Bun to it? Would she still try to weave? It would be good if you could avoid wires that way, but yes, if there is no other way…
Yes, I made it 3 ft wide and raced her to the bowls. I tried angling the poles inward to make like a tent, so they’d look different. She’s not exactly trying to weave, because the poles on each side are 4 ft apart so it’s really impossible for a 7.5 lb dog, but I do think she’s wondering if that’s what she’s supposed to do. It’s only been two sessions though, let’s see what she does the next time. I’m going to try putting the bowls right at the very end of the channel and see if that helps. I actually think she would do better if it were a real set of channel weaves with the metal strip down the middle--that she would understand. 🙂
Yes, I think it’s just a question of some sessions for her to get the idea, we just don’t want her to get worried about it, so definitely try to help as much as you can for now -- no extra chalenges yet!
I put together three clips of Byrdie weaving at a trial last weekend. Now that I look at it with your comment in mind, it seems he could stay a lot closer to the poles. Although the surface was like deep beach sand--he slipped a few times in the poles and the big dogs were wearing troughs on either side, so that probably made it worse. I felt like I was running in quicksand. But anyway, I wonder what you see. I was looking for video of Le to compare but couldn’t find one.
Wow, Diane, Byrdie is so fast and fun to watch! He dives right into his poles. That is something Spur rarely does as he works very hard to be right, so he sometimes slows to a trot to get his entry and then speeds up and powers through the end faster. I sure try not to stress him out about it, but I guess I must have. I’m thinking doing some of this channel work will help that.
For him, yesterday, I found that the wider the channel the harder it was for him. He just wanted to weave and would try to weave the side nearest me. So, I ended up closing them to about 6 inches and then he figured it out and could still run through without really “weaving”, so I think that distance is going to work for him. You might try something like that with BunBun? He still tried to weave pole 10 a couple times, but I think that will go away with a couple more sessions. This was his first time back in channels since he was younger and it definitely was hard for him, LOL.
Thanks Amy! Yes, he is a fast and furious weaver. When he was learning, one thing that got him to stop thinking and RUN was to make a race track of jumps and weaves, so basically two sets of weave poles parallel to each other, with a pinwheel of jumps at either end. Would Spur like that? Maybe if you used tunnels instead of jumps?
And thanks for the suggestion of just closing them up more, I actually thought of that last night and will try it today. If she’s thinking she wants to weave, then just go with it. Worth a try!
Hahaha, Diane, YES, good idea tunnel/weave/tunnel!! He sure flies out of his tunnels, so that would be a fun game for him I think!!!
I agree -- try narrow if wide doesn’t make sense to her! 🙂 Each dog sees it differently and more narrow can make more sense to those who want to weave really badly 🙂
WOW! Byrdie looks great!!!! I love her energy!
I think the width of the weave pole base (the metal strip running down the center) can really affect how some small dogs weave.
I trained Lil on weave poles that had a narrow base (1.5″ wide). She stayed very tight to the poles (vs. hopping from side to side). But the first time she saw weave poles with a typically wide base (2.5″ -- 3″), she had to change her weaving style to avoid slipping on the base (that is what I think was going on). Her style changed from tight slaloming to hopping side to side.
However, now that I’m using channel weaves as part of this class, Lil seems to be figuring out a way to stay tighter to poles with a wide base by stepping on the base a little (even with straight poles). ps-- retrofitted my weave poles by adding a 2.5″ wide strip of veneer wood to the base so that Lil is practicing on a typically wide base now, which I think is also helping her gain experience dealing with the wider base.
Thanks Devorah! Energy is in good supply around here! 🙂 Very interesting about the base. So do you mean she was actually single-stepping at first? Or just not as hoppy?
I think Lil is too small to single step (she is 10″ tall) but she is managing the wide bases better since doing a few sessions with channel weaves. Here is a slo-mo video.. Unfortunately it is hard to see small brown dog on brown dirt. You can see her footwork as she gets closer to the camera re: her front feet moving independently vs. hopping together.
Oh, that’s very interesting. Thanks for the video! Can’t wait to see what happens with Byrdie.
I’ve also heard of small dogs that can weave on poles with a base, but when the base is covered with dirt or sand they don’t know how to weave -- because what they learned how to do was just jump back and forth over the base.
It’s tough to be short! 🙂
Catalina, I experienced that same thing with both of my small dogs when I went to Silvia’s workshop 2 years ago and the weave pole side bar supports were opposite what is typical (the dogs had to stride over them). Both of my dogs were very confused by that. After the workshop, I rigged up a bunch of pseudo side bars out of cardboard and placed them along the weave pole base so that my dogs learned to ignore what was on the ground and to focus on the poles instead.
The other thing I’ve noticed about small dogs trained with 2x2 method is that some have a different way of hopping right and left through the poles… I assume because of the lack of a continuous bar running down the center of the poles. Not that I think the dogs’ performance suffered because of it, but it was just interesting to note.
Yes, I have a set of 4 sections of 3 poles each, and when I got them, the support bars were aligned so they’d stack neatly for traveling--which put some of them under my dogs’ feet, and they wouldn’t use them, or when they did, they’d hit the support and slip. I took them down to the welding shop and had them moved.
Late to this Devorah, but that’s what I had to do, too. All my dogs (all under 14″) have had trouble with certain bases, so I have learned to surprise them at home with different home made bases placed at various sections of the weaves.
Wow, great weaves! I love how he slows down just enough to find his entry and the boom! He looks really nice to me 🙂
Thank you, Sayward!
Looks pretty good to me! 🙂 How tight they can stay depends on a dog a lot too. La is of the same size and stayed really closely when she was younger -- see the logo picture of La in the weaves on this page -- but then got somewhat less flexible with age and is now jumping in and out too. Le is not very flexible either and does some more jumping in and out too, you can see it here for example:
So does NADAC only have those hoops, no jumps?
No, they have jumps like normal agility, this was just a game called Weavers where it’s all tunnels and weave poles and hoops, the idea being to test the dog’s ability to get going really fast, then collect to hit the weaves, then speed up again.
And thanks for the video!
I was able to get out before it got dark to work check/cap. I tried to not push her out. A couple times I think she is going towards the middle of the jump versus staying close to the stanchion. Should I do another couple sessions like this or should I add a bar now?
Oh and one question Silvia regarding the weaves, how far apart should I make the channel for Mya?
I think the best is you set it so that she does almost no weaving and can pretty much just run through. You can then still continue to do closed weaves on other occasions, like when doing course work, on trials, before trials etc.
can you name the weaves allready when working in the channel? Does it make any sense to them to name it before it even looks like proper weaves :)? So far I have only said “go!” when sending Terra
Yeah, I name it very early to work on obstacle discrimination very early already as they always take some time before they really get verbal cues. For them, “weave” means run between those poles, no matter how they’re set.
Much better, but yes, sometimes a bit more to the middle as ideally… Make sure you don’t reward those and select for the tightest ones. What might help too is to add bars, but angle them so that the close end is on the ground and the other end is on 12″ or something and then you slowly even then up.
I have 2 questions 🙂
#1 What program do you use to draw your course maps?
#2 This is a little harder question. I’m actually not sure what I want to ask. In class last night Tibby was super fast and I wasn’t prepared for it, so she went off course. Is there a way to train or cue for the next jump when you are farther away? Distance work maybe? I think we must have covered this in one of the lessons -- could you tell me which one, so we can work on it?
Sorry if that didn’t make sense! I would post the video of our run, but it is kind of embarrassing -- I wish we could have had a 2nd try at it! Although I did use a tik cue at one point and it seemed like Tibby was following that 🙂
I’ll try to attach the course map, maybe that will make my rambling question easier to understand?
Hopefully the map shows up
Here is the video -- you don’t have to watch it, because I understand that it isn’t part of the class. It’s a pretty big mess after :59 . Which wasn’t Tibby’s fault. It’s a lot to expect a dog to jump straight into a group of dogs and someone new came into the room when we got to jump #5. Next week if she sets up jumps straight toward the dogs again -- I will NOT do it! I don’t think we are ready for that challenge 🙂
I ended up running backwards between 3 and 4, but there has to be a better way to do that.
Maybe the descrimination excersice that Grit and Melanie are doing would be good for this? Then I could have been farther ahead on the tunnel for #3? 2,3,4 were just so hard for us! Tibby did offer to do the weaves after she took the off course tire -- first time ever on closed weaves 🙂 Very independant weaves LOL!! Sadly it didn’t make it into the video
Catalina! You are SO HARD on yourself!!!! Timely music, some adorable tricks, and I’m sure Silvia will be able to help! I dropped out of the class I was dropping into-so I would have only bad advice! I like to just stick with Silvia and you guys and hopefully this summer some friends will have us over to practice other places! I wish we lived closer or could just apparate to each other’s yards like Harry Potter!!!
Hahahah, Kelly, yes BEAM me to your house and we would have so much fun! My yard is drying today, YAY!!!
That would make online class really fun LOL! If that ever happens I vote that we go to Mara’s -- she lives in Barbados with a private beach 🙂 And her videos are always beautiful!
Oh yes, I want to go to Mara too! 🙂
me too!!!
I use AgilityBlues for courses… The problem you had was that she didn’t send to tunnel 2, so you needed to go all the way there and were then too late to push for 3 -- you being behind pulled her to a tire. What you would need is a better send to a tunnel -- lesson 1, exercise 2… You can practice sends from the wrong (back) side and similar to teach her to search for an entry no metter what, even hen it’s hidden some as in this situation with an A-frame. Then you could be further ahead and take her to 3 and then FC either between 3 and 4 or even better, 4 and 5. And yes, not really fair the dogs are standing so close…
Is this tire position allowed in US courses? Here, a tire is not supposed to be set in a serpentine like this, but only with a straight approach -- this looks really dangerous.
One problem we have is that if I get farther (some times even when I am very close too) from her for tunnel sends -- she will just pick whatever end she wants -- even crossing in front of me and ignoring my arm directing. I have been not rewarding and then resending her through the tunnel, but I don’t think she is learning anything from that except that she can go through the tunnel twice.
I guess I don’t know about the tire. Maybe someone who competes in the US could tell us?
We’ll get to work on the #3 tunnel excersice. I guess I missed part of the directions. Good thing I’m taking this class again and again and again 😀
Try a straight or only slightly curved tunnel, so that she can’t choose a wrong entry and you can focus on distance first! Try also strange approaches (tunnel curved away from you, tunnel hidden some behind weaves/see-saw etc.) and similar to have her search for it more on her own. There are so many things you need to try out in training first to be prepared for everything that it’s really not easy… But I’m sure it will just get easier&easier! You came a really long way already and I really didn’t see any embarrassing in that video -- it was not easy to get to 3 and those dogs standing at 5 were a bit unfair challenge -- I know my BCs wouldn’t feel comfortable jumping into the dogs at all (it’s rude afterall!) and would just refuse 5.
What am I doing wrong here? Tibby really doesn’t like to be restrained, so I sometimes push back on her chest. She was maybe a little tired from our long hike yesterday (and getting a bath and full blowdry/groom).
It seems like I either have to go all the way up to the tunnel entrance with her or she will just decide that she is going to do the tunnel on her own.
Could this be because we have done a lot of shaping? So she is trying to offer something that she thinks is right?
“so that she can’t choose a wrong entry and you can focus on distance first!”
Oops missed that part -- so I should just let her choose whatever end she wants?
No, it’s not shaping, I do tons of shaping with my puppies and they still understand the body language really well. I think it’s partly because you’re both still learning about the body language and because she doesn’t have a will to please that herding dogs poses. Try to use a longer side of a room so that you can set the entries even further apart and she doesn’t see a wrong one. So no, I didn’t mean letting her choose, I meant taking one option out of the picture.
Hope Tili and I are on the right track. Had a slightly frustrating start to the week when I discovered she is not coping well with distractions and spent a few sessions just trying to build up value on the jump. So now we are at this.
I am not having much success with restrained starts -- I have taught her not to pull on harness or collar. Found today that if I do a trick and then start her at a run I seem to get much better drive away.
See that the Cik is sometimes a bit wide so will add some more of these.
Her drive into the tunnel seems to be getting better.
Looks good! You can spread the jumps even more and add even more distance to the tunnel now that she is driving well to it!
Hello ! Some Tic&Tac at home : starting with a good recall from away !
Cool, that sure looks better! Just keep working like this, making it all about racing to a ball!
This is my first cik&cap with tunnels. Most of my commands are still too late. I am trying to get Yoshi to drive towards the jump without me. It’s hard for her but we’re getting there.
Cool, that sure went great! She actually drives really well to the jump already and collects really nicely over the jump, but often gets thrown out of the turn some after, especially when you wait too long -- she was tight the whole wrap in 1:47 try for example, but wide on exit in 0:49 try -- just to give you an idea what to look for -- you want her tight the whole time. After the tunnel, either say go and reward by a thrown toy, facing forward, or call her to hand, face her, have her turn with you and then throw in the opposite direction (or reward from hand).
Oh my!! Amazingly, my yard almost completely cleared of snow AND defrosted enough for my stick in the ground weaves as today it got to 60 degrees!!! Spur was trained on channels, but he hasn’t seen them in years. I had them about a foot open and he barely knew what they were. I had to recall him through them several times before he understood and then close them some, so they are about 6 inches open in this movie. He still had a little trouble as you will see twice he tries to “weave” pole 10. LOL!!
I think he just needs a few sessions to get the game again with them open, but how far do you suggest I open them for him?
I never do back crosses as I am always there and can front cross or blind cross the exit, so we tried back crosses today. With anticipating the ball he had no trouble. I also tried stopping my forward motion, pulling off to the side, no trouble. He’s definitely faster with me running with him. I’ll try some tough entries another session.
I’m so jealous! I tried to stick in my poles today and the ground was still frozen here-lucky Spur! I love Spur’s groupies!!! Glad to see Douce, I was worried last time…He stays right in, doesn’t he! Good boy!
Kelly, yes Douce is doing fine! Not great, he still gets sick, but he did do some agilityesterday and was pretty happy! She just used a ball, so no treats. He has had a GREAT time doing Rally.
Awesome job Amy and Spur! Man, you sure are skilled at that ‘chuck-it’ thing! When I use mine I either don’t throw it hard enough to get it out (which gets Keira all confused!) or I drive it into the ground, lol!
Thanks Sayward! Yes, I seem to be very handy with the chuck-it. I feel I can put more power into it and get the ball to the right position and rolling better than when I just throw it. It does present some issues, though, as it is awkward to hold sometimes.
Good luck at the trial this weekend! You are Keira are doing great!! It’s fun to watch you gain more confidence and speed. Spur sure has confidence issues and it’s fun to see him finding more and more fun from our training!!! This class is really great for him!!
Haha well I’m glad you can use yours, I guess I will just have to practice with mine more 🙂
Thank you SO much, I really appreciate that! This is our first trial in a few months and she also lost a ton of weight over the winter, so we’ll see if we see any speed differences! It’s funny when you describe Spur, he seems so much like Keira! I know! Keira’s finally seeing agility as a fun crazy game rather than a job, and I couldn’t be more happy ! We are loving this class too, really helping confidence 🙂 Good luck with your training, I wish you nice weather, haha!
Looks like a good width for him as he can more or less just run through. You can do both entries and independence at the same time, looks like he is ready for an extra challenge 🙂
Hey!
So we are gearing up for a trial this weekend, and I realized I hadn’t posted a video on here in a while. So I will finish all of the lesson’s homework a few days after getting back.
But I did do some trial ‘prepping’ which included her weaves in their current state. I hate to ask you to watch this whole prepping video just to see the weaves, but if you get extra time/ would like to, I am going to post it. If you do get to watch it, can you tell me, do you think she needs re-trained at all? She needs a lot of help in the weaves, and is pretty un-reliable (as you can see in the video she starts with a lot of problems but gets better later) but she has gotten faster and I was pleased with these sessions.
Anyway this is a long video I know, so if you want to wait to watch it until I can edit a ‘just weaves’ video when I get back I can, just let me know! 🙂
Good Luck at the trial Sayward! WOW-she has a whole other gear for that ball! I loved your video, especially the view of her weaving straight towards the camera! 🙂
Kelly, Thank you SO much! I really appreciate it! Yeah, we only use that ball for special work outs because she loves it to death (even after the squeaker is dead hah!) Really thank you!
Good luck, Sayward! You’ll do great!
Diane, Thank you so much! I hope so- it’s been a couple months since we last trialed 🙂
Good luck with your trial!!! Her weaves are perfectly o.k. for a Novice class of course, so don’t worry about it. But when you have some extra time, you can still play some with it 🙂 It’s not really retraining, it’s just an additional training for more independence. But I think you’re more than ready for Novice class! 🙂
Thank you very much! I got some weight off her like you suggested in the RC class, so I’m hoping all this running and fun games will help her speed up this time 🙂 Okay, I will play when we get back! Should I try like a small channel? She really loves the channel game, I wish I had taught her on them, but when I do use channels for speedy practices there is a big difference in speed&confidence.
Thank you! This is going to be our first trial at regular jumping height! (For the venue we’re in you can do a ‘preferred’ height, so we used to do 12″ now we are going up to 16″) Super excited to see, would you like me to post the videos when we get back?
Sure, we would like to see your run! I think 16″ shouldn’t be a problem now that she has less weight on. And yes, try to play with a channel some, it’s great for independence and speed and is real fun!
Will do, thank you very much! 🙂
We practiced more cik/cap with the bar on the ground. I think we need a few more times of practicing this before putting the bar up. It was so windy outside!
Still looking fast and fun! Are his left wraps a bit wider as rights? In figure 8, you also pushed on his line a bit a couple of times and that caused him go a bit wider, so make sure you stay well in line and don’t go so deep that you push him out.
I agree his left wraps are a bit wider in the figure 8 but I think I had a lot to do with that. 🙂 We’ll work on me!
Today we worked on more wrapping a jump in both directions. I used the winged jump this time. We also did a few passes through the channel weaves. One of my neighbors again was shooting and I noticed that Fleet was a bit worrisome but he tried hard to concentrate. Tomorrow my tunnel holders should arrive so I’ll be able to secure them better and work on those soon. 🙂 I’ll also continue to work on restraint. He is getting a little better but I know it can be stronger. I think that will help also with his drive to the jump.
Cool, the weaves look really good, you can start adding more&more extreme entries and distractions as he is weaving. He is very tight on cik&cap, but yes, looks a bit worried at times and a stronger restrain might help him drive more too. You could also try to play it with a thrown ball if you think he will like that better?
Yes, I will try a ball too for wraps (cik/cap). Not sure about naming the behavior yet since he is still not sure. Is it very important to have two names like cik/cap? Could or would your body dictate the direction of the wrap? So using maybe one word would be okay? Or is considered two different behaviors and be confusing? I’m not used to saying too much when running on course but I thought I would still teach a R and L for the running contacts. Today with the weaves I used the MM and then had him run back to me for the frisbee for a great game of tug. I will later fade it out and use only the toys again but it worked out pretty good this morning. Worked good too for having him return to me running back through the channels as a recall. It was raining so didn’t take video. Really enjoying the classes. Thanks Silvia! 🙂
I think it’s time to name it yes. You can use just one cue -- it’s better to use one and say it in time as using two and thinking so long which to choose to be late 🙂 I like to talk when I run though, just to make sure they really have all the necessary information even when I’m not at the perfect spot. And they really like it too. And sure, you can use mm for weaves!
Hi Shirley !
Fine : I am fond of your video ! because I learn how to work other points with my Garlic. It seems very fun to use a frisbee for the weaves because it flies away in the air and it is visible a long time.
Thanks Pascal! I have enjoyed watching Garlic too! I love the name! So original too. 🙂 I love using the frisbee cuz, for me, it’s like having two rewards in one. The sailing toy and then the tugging afterwards. But my throws are not always accurate…..lol.