Your last homework already! Two more weeks left to catch up and then with October 3rd, this class is finished. If you want to keep working on Foundation stuff in a class form, you can join October Foundation class (that is repeat of this class) for a reduced price. If you want to take things further, you're welcome to continue in Handling class that will start 31st of October, I'll open the registration soon. In Handling class, I'll be posting two different exercises for two different levels: the whole course for more experienced teams and shorter sections that will still be focusing on training to some degree for beginners.
1. sequence
Let's check your stays. I usually train them away from agility until they are 100% with toys flying, dogs running around, me moving etc. - and then just use them here and there also in agility: probably only for about 10% of sequences we run, to make sure I'm not given too many opportunities to ruin them 🙂 In this sequence, you need a stay. Position your dog at the good angle to be on a good line for 2nd jump, go to your position and start. Choose how you want to handle it.
2. front, rear and blind crosses: as there were some questions on the crosses, I included a video with different crosses on the same sequence. Normally, I first do front crosses only (as I only do collection sequences) + blind crosses on tunnels, then add rear crosses on flat and at tunnels, then blind crosses and then rear crosses on jumps. So try rear cross on a tunnel and on flat first and if that goes well, try it on a jump: see the video - just ignore the double tunnel, use a single tunnel of course, I just used whatever I already had in a set up. If you want (I'm not forcing anybody, I'm just including those as some participants were asking about them), you can try it with blind crosses too. Normally, I will choose the cross based on a situation: for collection, I will use a front cross OR, if I can't get there in time, rear cross at the jump. For extension, I will choose blind cross OR, if I can't get there, rear cross on flat. At trials, I do the most front crosses, then blinds and maybe one rear cross every 5 runs... Yeah, not big fan. But of course, it's important the dogs know rear cross too as sometimes it is the only option!
You could of course run those sequences with front crosses only, I showed it with rear and blind crosses only as by now, I think we mastered the front crosses already, so we can try some rears and blinds (if you want).
3. send in your contacts, see-saw, weaves and multi-wraps (on your current height) work again to check how it's going and to give you some suggestions on how to proceed after the class is finished.
Hope to see you in Handling Class!
Hi Silvia,
I was wondering if you might touch on when, and where you use blind crosses on a course. What specific situation are you looking for? Do you think there are any specific situations where you would never use a blind?
Thanks! Tammy
Sure, there are many places where blind is inappropriate. On turns, I will always use front. But I don’t like front on curves as it cues too much collection (and slows ME down too!), so blind is better for curves. Basically, I use front cross when I need collection, blind when I need extension and rear when I can’t be in time for front or blind -- meaning not very often. When to choose what and why will be discussed to more details on real examples in handling class.
Hi guys,
here’s a short video of Sequence 6. A bit wide on the turns and could be faster -- need to tidy up my handling and increase speed -- quite a bit to work on but at least we managed to complete the sequence!
Please excuse, friend’s dog in background barking!
Great! That went really well! Nice line from 1 to 3, good timing and placement of the front cross on 3, then maybe somewhat wide on 5 and 6… -- you could maybe use cik/cap there? First time also very nice threadle, but yes second time you don’t wait long enough for him in come before you move and push him away, but all in all, that was sure a really nice run, great job!
Thanks Silvia,
I will try to tighten up 5 and 6 using Cik/cap. Will try to do the rear cross sequence this weekend & upload a video before class finishes- we have not done any training on rear crosses so it will be interesting to see if he reads it.
My contact equipment have arrived from Germany so we have plenty to play with this weekend & perhaps do some RC videos!
Silvia, do you think we should register for your handling class or rejoin Foundation again? or just concentrate on RC for the moment and join your next handling intake?
Wow, very cool you got the equipment! Happy training! Not sure which class would be best… I think handling would be o.k. as long as you really keep sequences short enough, reward a lot in between and skip some too difficult parts -- simply because he has this tendency to worry and slow down when things go wrong. With less sensitive dog, it’s no big deal, but for soft and sensitive dogs, it’s really important to go slowly and make sure they really understand every element well before putting them all together. From that reason, even redoing Foundations wouldn’t be a bad idea… But if dong the same things again would be too boring for you, then you can try Handling, provided you keep it easy enough for him to keep his successful rate very high.
Yes, you are right. He’s very sensitive and even though I do not say anything when he gets it wrong, he knows from not being rewarded & will shut down if he gets it wrong more than twice! I also realised the other week that he has associated my laugh with doing it wrong -- I tend to laugh when he makes a mistake. Trying to control my laughter now….
I thought trick training would have given him more resilience!
Not sure yet which course but as we have a break to work on the Foundation exercises, i may well sign up Handling.
Training soft and sensitive dogs sure teaches US self-control! 🙂 It’s not always easy, but they’re great workers once they understand exactly what is expected from them.
Hi! i didn’t work yesterday because weather was so sunny, so we did some agility, not a lot because it’s so hot too 🙂 we’ll do the last sequence on saturday to end this great seminar.
here is the sequence with rear cross and blind cross. i don’t like rear cross because i feel that i’m letting my dog alone, because i try to be all the time before my dog (i don’t have superfast dogs) but Doucette understands what rear cross means. 🙂
she’s perfect.
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Great!!! Getting faster and faster I see! That was really cool! I don’t like rear crosses either, but it’s still important the dogs know it too. Enjoy the nice weather! 🙂
Ok, so here’s lesson 6 but we did the sequence from lesson 5 since I got them confused last time and did sequence 6. I thought it went pretty well the first time through, but then I fixed my timing in a few spots and it got cleaner.
We also worked on the rears and blinds lessons. The RC before the jump ended in a knocked bar the majority of the time. I lowered it to 16″ so she could be successful and then we ended up with a successful rep at the end. Blinds went well, but we both found it tough to do after the push until I lowered the jump to 16″ again. Not sure if that was due to a lowered jump height or due to better timing on my part.
Here’s an old video of her seesaws, but her behavior is still about the same. I’d love to see her drive further down the board. It’s even less drivey in a trial sometimes. We trained it using your old method of holding the end up and slowly lowering it until eventually dropping it from full height. She loves the bang game. I just don’t like the little hesitation she has.
I actually think that’s a really good style for a dog of her weight as it allows her to have pretty much running see-saw. I think it’s faster as running full speed till the end and then stopping as it allows her to run the whole time. So I would actually leave it as it is and then maybe give her more confidence in trials by staying close and even taking the hand out to pull her over faster. You can do it in training sometimes too, with a toy in your hand to have her drive to it more.
Ok thanks! I’ll try as you suggest with the toy. I do love that her seesaw behavior is very independent of me because I do not have to worry about fly offs 🙂
Wow! I’m really impressed by her wraps, she has great style and can be amazingly tight for such a big dog! That sequence sure looked great! First time, the push is not as smooth as you’re actually there too early -- it’s smoother when you start with her from the tunnel, as being static always makes pushes harder. Rear cross is risky for the bars yes, it’s important you cue it soon enough that she can take off in the right direction (but not so soon to pull her off the jump). And on blind cross, she knocks it as you’re spending too much time pushing her out and you’re then in her landing space when blind crossing: once she knows it better and you help less, it gets easier. But I think my tunnel was set easier, I didn’t really need to push to that jump, just recalled over. All in all: great speed, great collection, great extension! And she looks to be getting deeper on DW with 4 strides too! Maybe try throwing even sooner, so that she can extend more also one step before?
Thanks! She really is an amazingly athletic dog. Her turns are definitely an advantage on course, but getting her to extend is sometimes tough. She’s opening up more and more though!
Haha, I just saw that you changed the set up a bit between those rear/blinds courses. No wonder that part was hard!!! Oh well, at least we got to practice a push to a blind 😉
This was only my 3rd time trying the toy throwing with her DW. I finally found a toy that I could throw too 😉 I was pleased with those 5 reps, but I know my timing could be better on when to throw. So much to think about…get her on the DW, tell her to “go”, run, and then throw straight at the right time…ahhhhh!!
Well, I think that in this video, not only her collection was the nicest, I think that also her extension was the best!
Thanks! We’re getting there! This class has for sure helped her learn the difference between my body cues AND adding verbal for those turns I think has been like a lightbulb going off for her. She doesn’t like anything “unexpected” and if she’s not sure what is expected, she has historically slowed down to avoid a mistake. At least that’s what I think anyways. Whatever it is, this class has certainly helped to bring the speed out in her!
Sounds like Bu! For her, the worst thing that can happen is to jump long in one direction to then find out she is actually not on the right line and needs to come back… Things like that actually made her shut down completely! What is very strange as she doesn’t have problem repeating the weaves or contacts or whatever -- but being on a wrong line is her worst nightmare. So she was a great teacher to make me say everything well in advance -- she likes things to be predictable. She is the one that really taught me the importance of timing and being clear: La never cared about things like that and is happy as long as she can run!
Wow, yeap that’s my Rue. Maybe it’s in the name?? 😉
I really think that has something to do with her not liking Jumpers courses as much as Standard. More chances of being “wrong”.
I am definitely getting better with timing and walking the course as my dog would see it so I can be more proactive.
Yeah, Miles couldn’t care less…just run mom!
Yes, Bu likes contacts and weaves over jumps too, I think because the same thing is expected from her every time. Jumps used to stress her as there are so many ways to take them, but now that she trained me to give her early and consistent cues about jumps, she is happy about those too.
And yes, I’ll be more careful with names from now on 🙂 We use a “bu” word when you want to scare somebody… And it gave me the most scared dog ever… So my next BC is named (in a pedigree) Fast and Furious -- and she sure is fast, but has problem keeping all the bars up! Huh…
That really is very interesting and it helps me to understand my Rue even more. Thank you for sharing 🙂
Oh and I meant the Bu/Rue name because they rhyme…wasn’t even thinking about “boo” as the scary sound, hehe. Poor Bu 😉 She sure has accomplished a lot for being so scared! Amazing!!
I’m for sure naming my next Golden something having to do with speed 😀
Be careful with the names! Fast and Furious didn’t end so well… Simply the best (La’s pedigree name) turned out to be the safest choice 🙂 And yes, I know what you meant with Rue-Bu, I just wanted to take it further to show that there really is something about the names 🙂
Hmmm, maybe I should name the next one “Awesome” 😉
I made a movie our our trial runs today. Both dogs are on it though. I had fun experimenting with blinds and threw 4 of them in Rue’s Standard run and 1 in Jumpers. She did a 4-strided DW in Standard and hit high, but definitely had 2 solid feet in, yeah!
I’m looking forward to continuing on in this class. Need to sign up!!
Wow, that sure was fast!!! Great job and good luck for Nationals!
And she’s not that big…..just 20″ and about 40lbs 🙂
No, really??? Then she is smaller from my BCs!!! Still heavier though 🙂
Yes, she’s pretty tiny for a Golden. And VERY muscular 🙂
Have been following your conversation & can’t help add my two cents worth -- I named my 2nd dog Camus (a siberian) after Albert Camus but he is not at all like his namesake…. he is gregarious, v.v naughty and a real sook at the same time but not a thinker (although he does have the tendency to think he knows the course & blast of away, off-course…!!). His call name is “MU”!
Haha, very funny!
Loved your video Kristin, looking forward to seeing you in handling class. Silvia, hope you can help me with running starts like this for when Sid ‘freezes’ at trials.
Oh, running starts are easy: just let it go and RUN! 🙂
Thanks!
Yeah, both my dogs prefer a running start…..much less stressful for them than to have to stay.
Here is today’s weave practice with Da Vinci. Doing my best to get caught up on some video. I got a bit too ambitious with one of the entries…I got too excited I guess ;)! These poles are very slightly open 2x2’s…trying to get some nice footwork.
Cool, but yes, I would open them even more to get less jumping in&out and I would go for even harder entries than that: no reason to make him weave 12 closed weaves before he can nail every entry!
How do you “mark” good footwork? Or do you simply set it up so the single stepping is happening and build speed/ confidence from there…gradually closing? Do you add a name to the obstacle performance at this point?
As we discussed with Camilla already -- as I use channel, I always get single stepping as a side effect. And then I just close it slowly enough to keep it -- with dogs big enough to do it. And I actually use my weave cue as soon as the dog is running through the channel nicely, before actually weaving: I know it’s not really by the book 🙂 but naming things always takes me longer as teaching the behaviour as such, so I like to name them early, so that they really know the name by the time I start using it in sequences.
Just thought you might find this interesting Silvia -- I talked to a man that owns a training school ‘near’ me (90 miles away) last night. I was interested in joining the beginning agility class that they have. When he found out who I have been training with, you and Loretta and that I wanted to do RC, he said that we wouldn’t ‘fit in’ to the class and the instructor ‘wouldn’t know what to do with you’.
He kept talking about how they move the A-frame up 2 notches every week and by week 6 they are doing a 5 foot A-frame.
I had already explained that I just wanted to expose Tibby to working around other dogs and work on her motivation, but he was really focused on how we wouldn’t fit into the class.
Whatever! 🙂
Strange… Did you ask if you can still come and don’t do contacts at all? He wouldn’t be o.k. with that either?
Nah
That’s when he said ‘well, what would the instructor do with you? She wouldn’t know what to do with you when everyone else is doing the A-frame.’ He talked a lot about the A-frame…
I went to their training facility for a flyball night and thought it looked REALLY nice. It’s a brand new building that has everything.
Interesting… You could tell him you’re o.k. with just watching others, that Tibby needs short sessions and lots of breaks anyway and that would actually be perfect for you…
Silvia, Before this class ends can you tell us a little about how you decide if a dog is ready to trial? There are so many different schools of thought on the matter. I wonder how you decide for your dogs and also how you help your students decide. Are there advantages to getting ring experience or “working out” some issues in the ring? As you see it, are there disadvantages to waiting too long to trial?
What do you tell students who have dogs with motivation issues? -of course that would be my question 🙂
Well, I entered all my dogs to the first trial that they met age requirements for… My dogs come to trials since their 8th week of age, playing and doing tricks, so running agility there is not at all stressful for them, especially as I see it just as a training -- and training in the ring actually is allowed here: meaning you can’t reward in a ring, but you can redo contacts, redo start line or whatever you’re not happy with -- so they actually learn it’s just another training. So I let my students trial as soon as the dog can do all obstacles IF I trust them to not feel disappointed and show it to the dog in any case. But it’s usually not a problem at all, most people come to trials here to hang out and have fun as we don’t gather any titles. But if somebody doesn’t want to, they can of course wait some more, I don’t think there are any disadvantages either.
Dogs with motivational issues normally do better at trials as in trainings as it’s more exciting, more noisy, the handler is trying even harder and they also learn that there is just one 30s run and then a long break. You can make it extra exciting by rewarding it with the most exciting toys and treats. But I think Leia will like it, so nothing to worry about! Do you have trials in Bermuda or you’ll need to travel?
Thank you for the explanation. Trials where you live sound like lots of fun. I wish all organizations allowed training in the ring! Yes, we have trials in Bermuda. Usually 2 AKC trials and 3 or 4 USDAA trials each year. We have two coming up, one mid October (AKC) and another in November (USDAA). I was considering entering Leia in the jumpers classes just to get some trial experience (her contacts are not trained so we couldn’t do any other classes). I’m worried she could be more interested in people, kids, or other dogs and leave the ring to go visiting. She has been coming to trials with me since I got her to get experience crating and just being there. I do tricks and play with her near the ring so, I don’t think the environment is stressful for her, she gets into a good groove by the end of the weekend each time and seems to enjoy being there. If anything she gets a little overstimulated by everything going on around her and sometimes has a hard time focusing. For the AKC trial in October there would be 6 weave poles on the jumpers course but I think she could be ready to weave. Also, I’m not sure what height she will jump. I tried having her measured at a trial last year but she was very uncomfortable with the measuring device touching her back and would not stand still so, we have something to work on there too. So, still lots to sort out…not sure if I should enter her.
If you take it just as a fun experience, then you can sure try it, but you definitely need to start closing those weaves then as last few cm can be the hardest. You also need to go up with jumps to prepare her for what she will be jumping. Try to measure her yourself so that you know what height to get her ready for. If you’re afraid she might go visiting, make sure you focus her on you with tricks before the start and then if possible, just start with her -- and run as fast as you can to keep her attention 🙂
Thank you for the great advice! Will get cracking on all that you suggest. I also thought it would be a good idea to keep the start fast and fun, just a quick trick and run as fast as I can.
oh and some good news…I had the dates wrong, both trials are in November.
Oh, that’s even better! No hurry with the weaves then! But make sure you come to the point of including completely closed weaves in sequences before the trial. Also, if you have a friend who has normal weaves with “legs”, you might want to try that too, it can confuse them at first if they’re only used to stick-in-the-ground weaves, so it woudl be good she sees it before a trial.
I’ll do that. Thanks!
Hi Mara,
You could also enter gamblers and snooker. Gamblers you make up your own course anyway, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a contact obstacle in the gamble in Starters. Snooker is usually a bunch of jumps and tunnels, maybe one contact but you don’t have to do it if you plan your course around it. If it’s in the closing, then just do the obstacles up to that point and leave the ring.
Happy trialing, and good luck.
Maureen
Thanks Maureen, I hadn’t even considered those classes but your right I could try that too. Good Suggestions!
Hi Silvia and classmates,
Our training this week has gone well. I have video of the last two short sequences, but will have to post them a bit later. I do have a question however, what is the difference between a rear cross on the flat and a rear cross at a jump? I think I know what a rear cross on the flat looks like (because I’ve done it and Silvia you’ve pointed it out to me) but I am not sure how a rear cross at a jump looks like? Can anyone show or explain it to me?
Thank you 🙂
Well, I call it a rear cross at a jump what I do at 1:16 of my video. But I just named it like that for the purpose of the class, trying to describe the difference when the dog crosses on the other side of you on flat, before taking the jump vs. takes the jump and you cross behind him. I find this second option harder as the dog needs to read your plan before he takes off, despite you only cross after the jump.
So here is my video of the last two short sequences. On the first one, it took us a long time to get the rear crosses only. Maia does NOT do well with them unless she is running at full speed. I have not practiced too many blind crosses with her yet, as I am getting her to understand ‘come to hand’ first, but we tried them here for the first time over jumps. On the second sequence, I was not able to do a blind cross in this session:
Yeap, rear crosses are not the best choice for her as she only really runs when you run too and is slowing down too much when you’re trying to rear cross. I can imagine it works better when she comes with more speed, so I guess they’re only appropriate in those situations for her. It’s good you can do it on tighter sequences too though so keep practising anyway. For blind, this second sequence was not really the best, those two were pretty hard, especially because of where your tunnel is. Try to move it closer to the jump and somewhat more in the direction of a camera so that the jump after is easier to take without your help and then you have more time for a blind cross. But I think we’ll have some better situations for blind crosses in handling class.
Hello, This is our effort on the crosses. I’m very pleased with how well she is reading them and I like how you had us just DO them. I never liked it when trainers had me walk through a cross in slow motion, identifying each little step… it made me think about what I was doing too much and I never got the flow of doing it. As you can see we had some struggles but, I think it was just a matter of me getting a feel for where I had to be and how to move. Let me know what you think.
So sad this class is over! It was such a great class, I learned so much from the lessons and all of my classmates. Looking forward to Handling Class and More Tricks! Mara
Great! She sure reads the rear crosses well, that one time she turned right instead of left you were really too late. On such extreme turns, you do need to turn her on flat, not only cross over the jump -- just like you do on a try after. That blind cross in that same sequence was also too late the first time, you do need to do it way before she lands -- but I see you figured it out already 🙂 For blind crosses, it’s really important you trust the dog to take the jump: if you want to see it, you’ll be too late for a blind! And yes, crosses take some practice to find the right timing, but there is no high science behind them: just do it and if there is a problem -- try again -- it only gets easier 🙂