Time for a new lesson! And a "catch-up break" 🙂 With every class, we do a two weeks break for those who got somewhat behind to catch up and for those who are on schedule to give a dog a little break from plank running. I'll be answering your questions till Tuesday 4th October night and then again after 14 days, from 19th October morning again. Please don't post your videos during this time, I won't be reviewing old videos as things can change in 2 weeks.
If you're behind, make sure to complete lesson 1 before you start with lesson 2 and that you complete lesson 2 before starting with lesson 3 - you can't jump steps, there is a reason I'm giving you this assignments in the order that I do!
1. switch to a static toy, position it at the bar of a jump with a bar on the ground. The jump should be straight forward after the plank, about 7m away. The goal is the dog starts to look for a jump, knowing the toy is there. Occasionally, still throw a toy in advance, but mostly, have it there. When the dog already knows where it is, put a jump bar very low and a toy behind it (close after it, but far enough that the dog can land normally). Keep it there long enough that the dog is expecting it there. When you see the dog is pulling well towards the jump, knowing the toy is there, stop leaving the toy there and throw it after you click the contact, so that the dog gets it after the jump.
The goal is to switch from a static toy that is there as a target for the dog to focus him forward to a jump as a target to focus the dog forward and a toy as a reward we throw AFTER we see the contact is good. You need to be pretty quick as you don't want the dog to wait for the toy - so quick that I sometimes throw it before I realize the contact was actually not THAT good - but it gets easier 🙂 I guess this step will finally make everybody worried about rewarding leaps happy as now, you can withhold the toy for unsuccessful tries. HOWEVER, make sure the dog successful rate is high for this step as otherwise, you can loose the speed and get the dog checking back with you if you're throwing a toy or not. The same can be dangerous if you're late throwing a toy.
This is usually an easy step for BCs who will run full speed in anticipation of the toy, but can be a very hard one for some other dogs. For Le, that was the hardest step. She was running beautifully if the ball was still rolling when she saw it, but if I threw it that early that it was already static when she saw it (or when I positioned it there), then she didn't extend well enough. What finally worked was going few steps back with height, exciting her a lot with a toy, throwing it at the jump and sending her quickly to the dog-walk. That made her striding good enough to continue long enough to have her look for the jump and then I quickly switched to a toy, thrown after the contact is done, over the jump. That temporary caused some checking back with me, so I needed to go back to a stationary toy again, but then she finally got the idea to keep running full speed towards the jump/tunnel and trust the toy will appear then 🙂 and that again gave me the beautiful striding I had before trying to get rid of a toy, thrown in advance.
If the transition to a stationary toy is too hard, another way to try to avoid that phase is to pretend you are throwing a toy in advance, but then only throw it after. OR, using a tunnel as a way to focus the dog forward and throw it after the tunnel - works great with tunnel crazy dogs, didn't work with Le. Try and report back if you have problems.
2. keep adding height. If you have an option, it's also time to try the real thing. If you don't ahve a low DW you can use a normal dog-walk with additional plank at the end. Start with down ramp only and then slowly put the dog further&further back until you run the whole dog-walk.
When trying this or any other, new variable, don't vary other variables - make it as easy for the dog to succeed as possible. You can also lower a criteria somewhat. Normally, your criteria about hits by now should already be to be deeply in the contact - but temporary, you can click for good tries on a limit too, IF hind feet are well separated and the dog is not leaping.
3. new trick: have a dog back up on something very low and preferably soft first (folded blanket, low pillow) - then slowly add height, so that they need to pick up their hind legs higher&higher. At the same time, you can teach a "pee trick": click for lifting the leg, searching for an object, before they touch it. Make sure to try to get leg lifts on both sides - they usually prefer to go up with the same leg, so try to sometimes position them somewhat diagonally in front of an object so that their preferred leg is too far from it to start with that one. Also try climbing stairs backwards and cavaletti backwards.
Have fun! I'll be back to answering on 19th October and will publish new assignments on 7th November, so you'll again have 3 weeks to work on this assignment in class form - and 2 additional weeks to either catch up or take a break 🙂
The day before you left for the WC I tried to upload a video to You Tube and was unsuccessful. So I’ve been pretty much lost for the last two weeks. First I put the DW ramp on the table and he leapt onto the ramp and leapt off of the end missing the contact. So I took the top of the dog walk off and used it and both ramps. No luck out of a tunnel 20, feet from the DW. I do have a high rate of hits when I put him on the top, back about 9 feet. Also putting him 3 and 9 of my strides from the up ramp. I sure can use some help!
His speed though the ladder has improved. Also standing with his front feet on a riser and turning to his right. The left needs more work.
Yesterday was the first successful time he backup the stairs? He turned around twice, but I got him facing the correct way and he continued up to the top.
The video is private, you need to change the setting…
I actually really like how he moves on the first set up, coming from the tunnel. He gets somewhat leapy after that, when running just part of a DW. The only problem with the 1st try is that he is going for BC 4-strides pattern. He is of a size to be between 4 and 5 strides… Maybe let’s try running the whole DW again, but now with a static toy: maybe that takes some speed off and gives us 5 strides. Also, if you try starting him the same way as you do for those repetitions that gave you nice 3 paws hits -- can you get more of those or he started to leap those too even when starting him from exactly the same spot?
Greetings Silvia
Congratulations on your success at WC. What an amazing accomplishment for you and your teammates, La and Bu! Was very exciting that first 4 dogs in the medium class were Pyr Sheps!!!
While it was nice to have the two weeks off to “catch up” I am not sure that my crew and I made much progress. Still have issues with Eli flying off the plank about half way down the plank. And I mean he is really flying as you will see in the video. I lowered the planks back to the ground for several days and just as soon as I start to increase height then we are back to the flying off again. I am just not sure how to move forward with him. I removed the tunnel at the end of the planks as I wondered if this might be causing the issue but it made no change. I have used a hoop to encourage him to not fly off and of course this works short term but I am not sure this is a permanent fix. It does allow me to reward him for some good hits even if I am “making” him stay on the board. He will send to a jump, Tunnel or stationary toy nicely. However I need to get him to stop trying to be Superman on the plank and run to the end 🙂 Where should I go from here??
Liberty for the most part has done better. She is really running the planks now! She consistently has decent hits. Her hits are not deep in the yellow but she almost always hits in the same place with the same stride every time. Should I be trying to get her to hit deeper or should I continue to accept where she is hitting? My problem with Liberty is that any time I change something she starts flying off. For example, if I run with her to send to tunnel, send her to a stationary toy, etc she flies off. Liberty and I are basically in the same place we were before the break. She still doesn’t send to jump, tunnel, or stationary toy. As soon as I go back to throwing the Kong as she takes off running then she hits again. So should I just continue throwing her Kong and increasing the height of the dog walk? She shuts down quickly if she is not being rewarded for something so working through this is a bit of a struggle.
I am just not sure either of my dogs really understands what I am rewarding them for. Both dogs eagerly run the plank but I am just not seeing either dog making an effort to correct strides, etc to hit it if they have overreached. How long would you say it typically takes the dogs to “get it”? I don’t expect that they would have gotten in the first week but after almost 2 months of training RC most everyday twice a day I am just a little surprised that it hasn’t clicked with them yet.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Melanie, Eli and Liberty
Huh, not sure where Eli got those flying ideas… His striding is perfectly good to hit the contact nicely… And he does the same with either flying or stationary toy? Another thing you could try is having him run the down ramp only. So he is running as long as it’s flat, like 100% running -- and goes to 100% of leaps as soon as you raise it some? Even if you raise it for like 2 inches? Another idea would be to put additional plank on the floor right after this one ends, to “mask” the ending. You could then raise the second plank to this one, but keep them on different angles, to make the end of the plank that he is leaping so eagerly less specific… Just an idea that might break this pattern as I don’t think hoops will do any good.
Liberty looks good, keep throwing the toy for now and keep adding height. Switching to low DW might help too as if she learns to fly the apex some, she will be really nicely deeply in and then you’ll have more room to play with fading the toy (meaning she will be in even if somewhat less extended, as on 0:06. You can however try throwing earlier&earlier, so that she sees the toy fly, but the toy is static by the time she is on a contact. Another option would be to use a static food as a transition to a toy thrown after, but as I said, I would leave it for a while and instead focus on getting her to some more height and real DW to get flying over apex and deeper hits first.
The problem with RC is that not only they’re quite hard for the dog to understand, they also require quite some experience for the dog to be able to do the necessary adjustments at this speed, so it’s not unusual they’re not able to do it after 2 months, even when they do know it’s about coming to the end of it… But being able to get consistent hits is a good start.
Eli flies off about 70% of the time unless I have the hoop in place. He does hit it on occasion. Most of the time when he does hit it, he is turning back to me to see if I am going to throw his toy or if he thinks I am turning. I tried having him just run the down ramp and he does hit it running that way but he is not as fast since he is starting from a stand still at the table. Of the two options you suggest which would you prefer I try? I don’t want to throw a bunch of changes at him right now. I would prefer to go with what you think might work best and see if we can work through this. I believe this all started as he gets so EXCITED for his toy. My crazy man loves his toys:-)
I will continue with Liberty as you suggest. I plan to keep throwing her kong at this point and then we can transition to static food later on. She has done some target training and loves the manners minder so this might be a good option for her in the future. But right now will just add a little height and run, run, run!
Thanks,
Melanie, Eli and Liberty
Hm, well, if you think the toy is the problem, maybe we could try manners minder with him too… And add a toy later on, when he understands the task better? If it doesn’t stop the leaping in one session, try the additional plank next. We definitely need to change something as he is learning the wrong thing here. You can tape the tries with those different approaches (it can’t hurt anything at this point… -- will definitely do less harm as a hoop!) and I can check which one looks the best for him. I sure hope we can get him back to running soon!
I took videos of Eli starting from the table and adding an additional plank last night. With the additional plank added, I wasn’t sure what I should be rewarding and he continued to come off the side of the 2nd plank. With each start I threw his toy ahead of time and it was stationary before he took off. Using a manners minder with Eli might take some time as I have never worked with him using it. I just got the manners minders a few months ago and have only worked with Liberty. However, if you think this might be the best way, I can start down that path with him. He only did one flying leap from starting at the table. I was thinking that maybe I can backchain this and keep starting him from the table and slowly keep backing him up, down the up plank. What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Melanie, Eli, and Liberty
Hm, yes, with the two planks he is leapy on both ends, so let’s try the starting from the table approach, slowly backing him up to add more speed and trying to keep the running. Meantime, you can work some on mm too, might be useful somewhere down the path.
I feel your pain and frustration Melanie -- I was there with Maia for months! But, I kept at it and now I think she is finally getting ‘it’. But it has been a very long journey for the two of us -- we started in March of this year. Keep at it -- it will pay off.
Thank you for the encouragement!!! Training this is teaching me so much, including patience. I don’t give easily:-)
Hi Silvia,
I’ve started Viper’s A-frame training. We’re having some trouble getting her to come down a bit deeper in the yellow. Any advice ? I just have it in the middle of a sequence of obstacles (Jump, aframe, tunnel).
A-frame is full height for my venue of choice (5”6) Putting it lower didn’t seem to improve her performance by much.
Tara
" rel="nofollow ugc">
Cool, she is actually running really nicely and I’m sure she will get deeper with more confidence. For now, you can try throwing a toy in advance (she needs to see it flying over her head before she is at the top) so that she extends more over the apex as that will get her deeper. But I think she will be fine soon, how many sessions approximately have you done by now?
Silvia,
I tried throwing a toy early tonight and it didnt seem to help. She still hits very high up and sometimes misses. We’ve had over 10 sessions on the aframe as she still isnt coming in that deep.
Wish I could get her to come a bit deeper!
" rel="nofollow ugc">
Tara
Getting confidence can take longer as 10 sessions… Try to not worry about it, simply include A-frame in sequences you run with her and mark and jackpot the best ones -- and just keep going for other tries. I’m surprised the toy didn’t change her striding at all, though… Did you throw it soon enough?
Ha, yes like I said she’s always been a bit odd even with her dw with throwing the toy way in advance. I think the best way is to just run with tunnels on both ends and do a sequence with some jumps. So we’ll try this for another week and see what we get. I should be able to get lots of sessions in.
Tara
I think I’m also going to drop the frame down a bit in height and see if that will help also this week.
Yes, that might help. I think she will be fine, Bi was often too high for first few months, but is now always nicely in, without doing anything about it.
Two weeks ago we worked on two thirds of the dogwalk on tables, and had some pretty good success. The past two weeks we have been working on this set up of the dogwalk on the tables.
Here are the videos from three sessions we’ve had this week. He’s been a lot more successful, starting in session 3 we’re working on different starting positions…moving him farther back.
My only question is if you would be rewarding hits like 15 or 24? They’re not as low as the really good hits, but not leaps like the real misses.
Cool! I see hind feet separation and reach forward are back! 🙂 I think you can still reward hits like 15 and 24, BUT make sure you reward the nicest ones more enthusiastically! Also, as you’re getting a nice successful rate now, try to vary his approaches some to challenge him some more.
Silvia, Sorry I forgot to set the video to public. It’s fixed now.
Hi Silvia. Welcome home. It was SO exciting watching you on the live stream. I didn’t get much sleep that weekend ;)! Congratulations 😀
Here are Da Vinci’s last three sessions. Since the last post, I moved the DW to a new location where we can spread out and run more. We started in the new location at 2 ft and just recently moved up to 3 feet. Considering how challenging previous height changes have been for him, I think he is adjusting better this time. Still cautious on top.
When coming off the DW, am I supposed to be giving a verbal “tunnel” cue?
Great!!! Almost there 🙂 He seems to be really trying to get those hind feet in, that’s a very good sign. Things should get easy from now on. I think he is only leaping when the bouncy DW plank is throwing him off balance… Maybe try to put a middle support under it, it’s really moving a lot under him. Try to slowly introduce different approaches to DW too and curve the tunnel at the end to eventually stop rewarding from mm and start rewarding from your hand, but always after the tunnel/jump. Great job!
Thanks! I’ll try to get some support under the DW. Should I try the throwing a toy after the tunnel step or go straight to curving and rewarding from hand?
I am not using a verbal cue for the DW. When should I start?
Yes, definitely start using a verbal for DW. And you can either reward from hand or with a thrown toy after the tunnel, whatever he prefers. Leave the mm out for a while, but reward with a toy/food from your hand now.
What verbal do you use for the DW and Aframe?
I have been meeting him at the mm for jackpots and taking more food out of the dispenser by hand so that might help. In the past, if there was food ON me, he wouldn’t go forward. I’m thinking I could do these steps…1. fade the beep & dispensing sound and only use verbal “yes” but still feed out of MM. 2. Leave MM there but feed from my pocket at the MM. 3. Fade the MM. Does that sound logical?
Yes, sounds like a good plan! I use “up-up-up” for A-frame and “cez” for DW… -- Slovenian word for “over” 🙂
Hi Silvia -- congrats on your awesome WC runs and accomplishments!
I was away at Nationals myself for over a week.. we were having alot of leaping, so when I got back on Monday, I decided to try a completely flat aframe on the ground, still running between 2 tunnels. These are 2 sessions of this set-up. Should I stay here, or try to go back up to low table between again.. I can go back and upload some of the sessions we were having, or, there is the stuff I put up on page 3 of Lesson II. (sorry about that, I posted it before I had read what you wrote under lesson III).
It looks good on flat, so yes, I would try the table again. The good thing is the tunnels seem to work and make him focus forward, so maybe he will be thinking more about how to get to that toy now that he only gets it for good tries?
Ok will do, and one other question: what do you think about my running with him? Should I continue to run with him as I am doing in the videos above?
Sure, running with is o.k.!
Here is first session back to low table, with running between 2 tunnels, I thought it was good!
Yeap, very cool, no leaping! I think you can progress somewhat faster with height as I think it’s only at the certain height that he starts leaping, so I would spend most of the time on that height, going back and fourth between lower height that still gives you nice running and critical height that gives you leaping, to see if yo can reduce leaping % that way. I think that on this low height, he was always running really nicely.
I had another session that was 80% on the set up above, so I went to the next highest table height -- not as high a success rate, on 10/24:
2nd session, same set-up: 10/25, not bad, but not great.
What do you think? Stay at this table height for a few more sessions, or try to go up?
Cool! Still running well -- even when missing, he is not leaping, that’s great! So yes, I think you can go up!
Ok, here is next higher table height… not great success…
1st session 10/26/11:
2nd session 10/28/11:
Stay here, go up, go down?
Hey Silvia -- not sure if you had a chance to comment on my last 2 vids above. I know it’s a challenge to watch and comment on everyone, so just checking in in case you were inundated, and missed seeing them! Thanks, let me know!
Ups, looks like I somehow missed this post, sorry… But yes, his running looks o.k. with the ground poles -- do you think it’s really the poles that made the difference? Try without and see what happens. If it affects his performance, put them back, but start moving them away (spreading them further away from the A-frame) gradually right away as you don’t want him to cue from the poles. And yes, I think you can go higher.
No problem:
Re: marker poles: I’m not sure, but since he leaped so dramatically the first time at this table height, I thought I should do ‘something’ to try to get him to focus a bit more… so put them back.
So -- I’m planning to train tonight, should I move the table height higher, leave the marker poles in for a run or two, then, then start moving them out?
Or:
Start moving the marker poles out away from the bottom of the frame, while the table is at the current height (in the vids above)…?
Tonight’s session will be interesting, because due to this early and un-expected snow storm, I had to move my set up to slightly higher ground, so the whole tunnel -- setup- tunnel has changed location and orientation… not sure yet if it will affect him or not.
Thanks as always for the review and advice.
I would first test if the poles are really the reason and would take them away completely on this height and try a couple of runs and if he leaps, put them back and if that makes him run again, raise the table and start to slowly fade the poles.
Ok, here is tonight’s video. I didn’t see your reply, so I didn’t go up on the table height, but instead messed with the marker poles.
Do you think the marker pole location is affecting him?
I will go up on the table height next? And do you have a suggestion as to how much higher I can make the table for the next step?
Thanks!
Wow, some very nice hits! But yes, it does look like he is cueing from the poles some, huh… Looks like you’ll need to move them out really gradually…
Here is tonight’s session, it’s the next taller table, it was a bit of jump, at least 8 inches, probably.. not sure, I haven’t measured it… but it’s a 24″ tall table.
I have the variations/explanations all embedded in there…
Do you think I should play with that pole wrap approach, going back and forth between the tunnel approach? He always seems to get it with 4 hits on the pole wrap approach… Not sure if the marker poles are affecting him now?
Should I stay at this table height, do you think? Or go back down…?
I would keep this table, but not do any tunnel approaches anymore, but for now start with a pole wrap and then slowly set it further or start with a jump that is set 90 degrees to the A-frame. Start him closer again whenever he starts to fly again.
Hi there Silvia and Class mates. The video posted is where we are at. Evening session 19 Oct. 65cm up. i think when we last posted we where still flat! I am using the whole DW, a cone to send around and a tunnel out front, i with -hold reward if she does not hit nicely. I am also changing start set up almost every rep. I see some strange back legs but think this is her working really hard to hit contact. Looking forward to your comments. Happy training to all.
Hi i forgot to say i am rewarding front and back legs now as the start set up is not her just best, which got back feet in. Is this correct?
Great! She is definitely trying hard and is really adjusting to get in! That pretty much means you’re almost there, it should be easy to add height and change other variables from now on. You can also try a jump instead of a tunnel at the end, of maybe first DW-jump-tunnel. Great job!
She is so sweet trying to figure out how to make all those 4 feet fit in this small zone 🙂
Thank you, happy training, this RC is such fun!
Alicia! Great job!!! I wonder if you would be able to get the whole set up in your video or does it loose quality then? Maybe you could get just a little more of the horizontal plank? Your girl is very interesting to me with her striding. She appears to carry her left hind on that first stride over the apex like my Spur carries one his right and sometimes left. Your girl grounds both her hind feet on her contact, which is awesome as my Spur sometimes does not. It is hard to tell on your video as she is a blur, LOL!! But, very interesting.
Question, are you starting her turning different ways around the cone or the same way? Just curious because she seems to have different leads. My Spur almost always changes to his right lead on the down ramp even if he starts with his left lead.
I may be wrong about what’s going on as she is fast and her feet are a blur!!! 😀 Awesome job! She is the dog who hurt her knee on the set up in the previous class, right?
Hi there Amy,Thank you, I have to apologise to all class mates that i am very far behind trying to watch videos and read comments, so sorry. I have been developing sand tunnel bags which are not availiable here in this country and finally they are ready for selling!!! And mine to use at home as that is why this all started!!! I will try get the whole set up, this week sometime, as i have a new camera and maybe it will ok when i edit it, lets see. What camera do you have and what edit program do you use?
Your Spur is doing great, i have managed to watch a little here and there. Well done. With regards the cone, yes i send her different ways around, Tip and Tuck as per Silvia’s method and then onto DW. At the moment it is out in front before DW about 6 m and i change to within the session to anything up to 9 m. All the space i have to start from. Straight on at the moment. I will look at the leads more when i edit in future, as at the moment i am just so happy about feet placement i have not really noticed which legs she leads with, hee hee.
Yes she is the the dog from 1st RC that crashed into the end of the plank!! Not so clever on my behalf raising it as i did but hay i had never done this so i pulled her and joined up with class RC11, and in the mean time revamped my DW with rubber mats and then restarted 22 Sep. and put down the whole DW flat and raised it at apex in both places so she did not have a repeat of 1st class. I am very happy with how she is doing, it is just so cool to see how happy they are cause they can just run!
Happy training.
Spy is sure doing great! I think you can introduce even more different approaches now, maybe using a jump and moving it all the way around, just as you would do when working on weave entries.
Wow, Thank you Silvia. 🙂
I dont have too much space, i am using a very narrow section at home but will curtainly start to try change the start set up, not just with the cone even if i cant do quite the full clock, i understand what you mean just dont know if i will have space:-( Could i move my dog walk so that i can do 1 side for a few days and then move it so that i can work the other side for a few days or should it be both sides each session which is what i have been doing up too now with the cone straight on? Must you put a pole to help them get on straight at the base, like you use to teach turns off, not there yet, not to cut the corner at 1st with off set approaches on? Dont worry i wont try do the whole clock in 1 day, hee hee.
Photo of the tunnel bags i have developed, very proud of them, i think they look very cool. I worked with a tent company and developed the pattern!
Wow, Thank you Silvia. 🙂
I have a very narrow section at home that i am using to train RC. If i move my DW left or right i may be able to do the jump at the beggining but will only be able to work the 1 side 1 day, 12 to 9 o’clock and then move it and work the other side the next day, 12 to 3 o’clock or a few days one side and then a few days the other side, is this ok, what would you think is better? up too now i have done the cone, as i have said and worked both sides but just straight on. Thank you.
Photo is of the tunnel bags i have developed.
Hi sorry for the double post i have no idea why it did that 🙁
I typed the 1st and then it lost it, so i then typed it again and then oh my goodness 2 lots come up so sorry!
Very cool sand bags! And no, if it’s that complicated I would for now keep training straight entries and add angles later on, I think it won’t be a problem anyway, considering her level of understanding. And yes, I use a pole for ugly entries to make sure they don’t come up from the side.
This is something I keep meaning to ask…….so other than using the pole you don’t teach ugly entries in any specific way?
Thanks, Amy
No, that’s all. It’s mostly to be able to train different speeds coming on a DW, sending them on while standing in the middle etc. In trials however, we never see ugly entries like that, the judges have instructions to set safe entries only and I don’t remembering ever having a problem with an entry (or falling off or whatever) on a trail, so I don’t really care about training them more as that.
Oh, don’t worry about leads, goodness there is enough to worry about with strides, hits, paws, feet, legs, LOL!! I am just interested and curious for my own fascination with that sort of thing.
I use a Canon Powershot, not an expensive camera at all, but easy to connect to my computer and load videos. I use Movie Maker for editing. Not thrilled with it as it locks up a lot, but we manage through and I think it make OK quality.
Thank you for your kind words about my Spur. He’s a great little guy and trying very hard for me and has come a very long way from his horribly worried days!!! 😀
Hi Silvia. Congrats on all your WC runs. Awesome to watch. We loved your post on team work. My first pup Summit who I still compete with and my first ever dog of my own has taught me it’s not about our ability but our team work. I do what works for him to keep him happy healthy and enjoying to the game.
Lira and I had a little set back. I put the jump out in front starting with it on the ground and she did ok. Bar went up and started to fly off….Bar went down and continued to fly off..I was getting a little nervous since we were doing so well. So we took a step back. I had a friend camera here that I could actually send you slow motion. Tossing the ball early and low continues to be the key….The third throw was AWFUL and you can see what happened…lol
Jump is now back out after the down contact and we are doing better. More video to com.
Thanks! And well, I think you just need to progress more gradually, try earlier throws first and only then switch to a static toy, maybe positioning it after the tunnel vs. jump first, but first and foremost: without rushing it.
When I use the static toy she does not drive down the end contact but trots. Any advice?
Yes: don’t use a static toy just yet 🙂 -- but instead try to slowly introduce earlier throws, so that the toy is not flying right in front of her nose anymore, but further&further ahead, then only still roll and is eventually maybe stopping already. At the same time, you can work on her drive into tunnels away from that, if she pulled well to tunnels that would make things easier.
Yes….it’s working…throwing ball really early and she’s not leaping :)!!
Cool! Keep working like that for a while then!