As you did so good with your first homework, you're getting some more this time 🙂 I again marked the ones to focus on first. Post wherever you end up, we learn the most through problems, so you want to post those too! 🙂
1. experiment with different toys and ways to play with your dog. Tape his favourite game to give some new ideas to other participants (and me!!!)
2. instead of a plate, find something a little higher this time to give them a better feeling of where to keep their front legs, click first for front feet on an object (should be easy, you want the same thing as on a plate) and then observe hind legs and click for ANY movement (even just a weight shift) and then shape from there for more&more steps around the object. I first click both directions and once I get a quarter of a circle, start clicking one direction only and reward with a head away from me in order to get a full circle. The final goal is full circle in both directions, with you static (don't help the dog to circle with your movement!) - I think those that have my heeling video can already do that exercise, though 🙂
3. take the plate and hold it in different positions to see if the dog understands it's the same thing even when you hold it higher, under angle, to his left/right etc. Try when he is standing, sitting and lying down. If you didn't name touching an object with a paw, it's time to do it now! Also, try to change objects for this exercise, sometimes also use a hand as a paw target. Once he can do all that, you're ready for next two tricks we will get out of the paw touch:
- crossing paws: tell the puppy to down (or shape it if he doesn't know it yet), then hold the plate (or, you can use another, smaller and more convenient object, like a plastic lid or a piece of paper) close to left paw and only reward touching it with left paw. Then hold it closer and closer to right paw, still only reward left paw touches, then hold it on right paw and eventually on the other side, jackpoting the touches of left paw on a right paw now in order to eventually get rid of a target.
- sit up: tell the puppy to sit (or shape it if he doesn't know it yet), then put the plate (or just use the hand if he will recognize that as a target) low enough first that he can reach it with a paw, but then every next time, hold it a little higher - not that high that he would stand up, but high enough that the other leg leaves the ground a little bit too. Jackpot.
4. observe your puppy and try to find situations when he would back up - it usually happens when they're moving out of your way - or sometimes when you're working on ignoring the food in the hand. You can try to sit down on the floor with treats in your hand and click first step back with hind foot. Don't wait for more than one as they usually sit down then. Click&reward the first one and reward by throwing a treat towards the dog. Rewarding at distance will help you add more&more steps and more&more distance from you. At one point, switch to rewarding with a toy, it's easier to throw.
5. 2on2off - find an object big enough for the dog to go on with all 4 feet easily - maybe just put your first 4in object upside down? - Click for 2-3 legs on and then don't click the fourth one, you don't want any duration standing there! Only click again when the dog is leaving the object, try to catch him with 2 front feet on the ground and deliver the treat while he is still in this position. You want them go on an object and off immediately, stopping with front feet on the ground. Click&reward several times for a position, then say "go"/"o.k."/"free"/whatever your release word will be and throw a treat away so that he needs to leave the position to get it. Do this enough times that the dog starts to expect the thrown treat after "go", so that then you don't need to throw it in advance, but only after he leaves the position on "go". Do not help with body language that you want him to leave after "go" - if he doesn't know it yet, go back to throwing a treat and progress more slowly.
Last call for 
Hi everyone,
Here is most of our Lesson 2. I will show Cosi crossing both paws for Lesson3, as she can do it (we took this class before :)… I will also show the 2on2off position with Lesson3, as I could not video it alone (I did try 🙁
The quality is nto so gret, as I had one hadn with the video camera and the other with either treats or the water hose -- LOL
One of her favorite outside games
Pivot on a bowl both directions
Paw touches -- we will show both paw crosses with Lesson 3 video
Backing up -- Cosi likes to do this!
Cosi is so cute with her tricks! Great job with pivoting, great back up and too cute with those paws! Definitely ready for lesson 3 🙂 And she sure loves that water hose, that was fun to watch!
Sorry I’m so late with this. It’s been hard because I was out of town for a week, and I’ve been busy with work. And every time I tried to get videos of our training something went wrong with the camera batteries dying or the card being full, or movie maker deciding to freeze up and not work. So, after much work I FINALLY have a video for lesson 2!
She is doing much better with the heeling trick now, she fully circles and doesn’t climb onto it anymore. Sorry that part is so long, movie maker wouldn’t let me trim it :/ As far as the target training, I think she is doing good with the sit up, let me know what you think. But the crossing paws trick, I can’t figure out how to get her to do it without moving her other leg. You can see in the video we aren’t very successful, any tips? Thanks! I hope it’s okay that this is late.
I think your puppy is very enthusiastic to show you she understands targeting, LOL 🙂 This trick took Cosi and I a long time… We worked on it very very slowly… I started with a tiny tupperware lid (about 2 inch diameter), but a jar lid would work fine too. I wanted her to cross her left paw over her right first, so I put the lid to the LEFT of her left paw, and click-rewarded every time she tapped the lid with her left paw only. Then I SLOWLY moved the lid in front of her left paw till she tapped it, then a little to the right of her left paw, then more, then ON her right paw, then tilted to the right while still on the right paw, then a tiny distance to the right of her right paw… We did this really slowly over a period of maybe 6-7 days, with lots of click rewarding… She finally got it, but we worked in tiny increments of distance like that… If your puppy is using both paws, don’t reward unless she taregets the object with the paw you want to start crossing with. I hope this makes sense and helps a little -- I’m sure others will have ideas too 🙂 Your puppy looks really happy and interested to be working with you :))
O.k., real short now as you might be much further by now… But nice back up and getting there with sit up and pivoting! Some more work needed for 2on2off. For crossing paws, try Cindy’s suggestion or help her by putting her next to the wall so that she can’t move so much.
Here are our progressions after 8 days. Think it’s time to add some of the other assignments. I love how these tricks make me enjoy my puppy even more! 🙂
FINALLY got to the lesson 2 tricks, after all our troubles with Pennys shoulder. All of the tricks are in 1st-3rd session, so they’re not done yet, but wanted to post them anyhow. Just started on paw crossing and situp, will film them asap 🙂
So nice to see Penny back and feeling well enough to be so playful. I really enjoy your videos.
Rachel
Thank you so much Rachel and likewise. I think I might have a crush on Finn, he seems to be so thoughtful and graceful and he really makes me smile, big beautiful man 😉
Emily, don’t worry, Grit and I joined the class very late, so don’t feel like you are the only one playing “catch up”! 🙂
Thank you, it’s nice to know that I’m not alone 🙂
Glad to see Penny is back!!! And what a cute and coordinated back up and too funny with that cat leap on a way back -- try clicking that too, would be a cool trick to put on a verbal cue. Very good pivoting for a 3rd session too, keep clicking both directions. Getting there with 2on2off, time to gradually add some distractions to check her understanding of wait until the release. Was fun watching her play, what a happy puppy!
I’ve been soooo excited to get started again after our break! We are still working to catch up with the rest of the class, but I think she has made remarkable progress! (Silvia, I hope since it’s the 15th where you are, it’s ok that I went ahead and posted!).
What a nice frog! Great 4in too and yes, very cute paw crosses! Circling is going well too, maybe it’s time to start the other direction too as she is still offering some of it -- once they get too fluent in one direction, it’s even harder to get the other one. For a beg, make sure she sits straight -- when not, they can’t balance. 2on2off in normal direction, I prefer to do it with a lower box so that they can get in a position more fluently. I only use higher objects for backing up into 2on2off.
FINALLY got to the lesson 2 tricks, after all our troubles with Pennys shoulder. All of the tricks are in 1st-3rd session, so they’re not done yet, but wanted to post them anyhow. Not so happy with the 2on2off. She seems to be way less energetic on that compared to all of our other training. It might be hurting the shoulder? She really seems to get the concept and starts being very happy about it (not on the session I filmed though) and after 1-3 reps she’s changes attitude and sometimes simply leaves, something she never ever does elsewhere 🙁
Just started on paw crossing and situp, will film them asap!
Oops sorry! Didn’t see your answer and thought I had to repost as I posted the first one before the 15th. My bad 😉
Thank you for your answer and suggestions! Really love the cat leap as well, good idea to reward that as well 🙂
Would you use something lower for the 2on2off?
I think your 2on2off object would normally be low enough, but considering her shoulder injury, lower might be better. Also, don’t do too many repetitions (maybe only one or two at the time) if you have a feeling she doesn’t like it. But if you plan to use it for contacts, do slowly add more speed going into the position. -- But maybe she is just telling you she wants to do running contacts instead 🙂
She’s definitely the running contacts type 😉
I just have to be able to run fast enough then…
Silvia, I have a question about 2o2o. I’m not getting much drive or understanding for the release, even though I’m throwing the treat. It’s possible she’s just still figuring it all out, but I was wondering if you have any thoughts?
Haha, I can tell why I went to running contacts with Smitty!!! 🙂
Understanding of a verbal release alone can take a while. I noticed that especially dogs who are shaped only have difficulties with understanding cues at first -- they are so used to us, not helping at all, that they tend to prefer to try as to listen -- it can take a while before they get we ARE helping/directing them now with a verbal cue. It goes fast once they get the idea of verbal cues, but I know that with my puppies, it takes ages before they learn their first verbal cues: but once they get it, it’s indeed like a snowball 🙂 So yes, I think she just needs more time. -- And running contacts, of course 🙂
Interesting. She does seem to understand several other verbal cues, so I’m not sure if that’s it? I think it’s more that there’s more value for being in 2o2o, than for getting off, so she’s not really interested in getting off. Maybe once we progress to the point that I’m running away and we can reward the release with a game of tug?? I’ve always thought that 2o2o worked best for the dogs that are super excited about what’s NEXT (aka the release), so this has been a fun little experiment for me. I also may have thrown too much at her on this exercise, since it’s sort of training 2 things at once (position/stay + release). A few sessions ago, I went back and broke things down more, and I think I’ve seen an improvement. I’ll keep you posted! 🙂
Yes, the release must become a cue they did the right thing and a fun is starting. So yes, I switch to a thrown toy as soon as I get some understanding of both, stay and go. Once I have this understanding, I also do less&less rewarding in a position, as eventually, in real life, a release will be the only reward for a stay (be it a start line stay or 2on2off).
Oh, that’s very helpful! OK, I can see what the next steps are for her. I do want to make sure we have a solid startline! 😉
I think we may be ready to graduate to Lesson 3! 🙂 I could have edited some puppy antics out, but, gosh, they were just too darned cute! Silvia, please let me know if you see anything that we could be doing better!
Very cute back up! Getting there with 2on2off and sit up, she already looks more balanced as on the last video! Great side and heel, try to also move some away from her and have her follow your leg, so that she learns it’s about following the leg around (not just pivoting until you get to the leg) -- as that understanding makes it easier to fade the target then. As you move in circles, try to have her as glued to the leg as possible all the time -- as in Dondi’s video. But yeap, looks ready for lesson 4, you two are FAST!
Hi,
My question after watching Melanie and Grits vid in the last comment, is about the naming of the directions for the Perch Circles.
Do we have to name the directions?
or is that just for if we plan to use it for heeling?
Will we use the “heel and side” for commands on the Agility field as in “left and right” commands?
Or will we get a Left & Right exercise later (or in foundation class)?
Sorry I may have missed a couple of comments if this has already been answered, my internet supplier has slowed my speed down already…..time to change my plan.
We will learn left&right later on, still in puppy class. Pivoting work is preparation for heeling and has no other relation to agility other than the dog learns how to use his hind end well. At this stage (circling in one direction and another), I don’t name it all, as the object as such is their cue -- but you can of course name it if you have enough ideas 🙂 I normally only name it when I take it to the next step (lesson 3) -- and I name it “heel” and “side” then. Not at this stage yet though.
Ok thankyou.
I am going to buy a small bowl that is coloured today to use as Perch. If I use anything square’ish, she goes into 2020 position instead of Perch position.
All my usual bowls are glass so I will get something plastic.
With the 2020 she pretty much knows the position, so should I take it a bit further and start focusing on her release and drive off the 2020 position. I’m finding she is not leaving the position quiclky, sort of hanging around sniffing for treats……..or should I make her release treats way more tasty than the 2020 position treats? Maybe even use her toy or ball to get a more enthusiastic realease?
Yeap, if she knows the position already, then you can go to the next step and actually stop rewarding in a position and only reward the release -- and yes, toy is better for rewarding releases as treats. The reason why you switch to rewarding release only once the dog knows the position is that that’s how the stays (in 2on2off or on start line) look like at the end, in trials: their only reward for staying in the release cue that allows them to continue. Many people make a mistake of rewarding heavily in a position in training -- and of course never in trials -- and then it’s too easy for the dog to see the pattern 🙂
Should I be naming the possition now? as in, should I say “Touch” when I want her to go into the position?
Or do I wait untill She is definatly getting on and into that position just using generic words like , get onto it, do your spot etc etc?
Name it as soon as you’re happy with what she is doing, meaning that you’re happy with her speed going into the position and then holding it until the release.
OK
Here’s where we are at so far.
PERCH CIRCLE: Tegan has had some rear hind leg lameness on and off and this is partly due to the reason we are not as advanced as other 18mth dogs and why we were unable to also do any rear end exercises when she was a puppy. However we hope we have the lameness under control now……
So having said that, I think she finds rear end work hard at the moment as she does NOT know where her rear is.
Also is there other rear end work I should be doing to help her find her rear?
Also I am the first to admit I am lousy with my timing of the clicks and rewards, but great at cheer leading my dog….sorry about the sound effects.
Well, perch work looks GREAT to me, considering that you just started!!! So hey, stop luring and helping with your movement, she doesn’t need that! Just stand there and enjoy 🙂 -- she is giving you so much movement all on her own! Click that and then help by rewarding with the head turned away from you (in the direction that promotes continuation of circling), so that she learns that taking her eyes off you to finish the circle is o.k. -- that’s all the help she needs!
And yes, we are/will be doing lots of hind feet work in this class, don’t worry. I just hope she stays pain-free!!! What was the cause of her lameness, did you find it out?
Yes, it is trigger points/knots in the muscle.
We don’t know what is the cause, however can treat it and with stretching morning and night can stop the trigger points forming.
Lucky for us we have a vet who does this only 2 hours away so can go when/if we need to.
He thinks it may have been caused when she was a puppy, could have even been in the womb, the hind legs sitting the wrong way and she favoured one leg when a baby until it was lame and then when onto the other to support and it went lame. so shifting from one side to the other, and shifting lameness untill she was 6 mths. Finally after seing 4 vets for the problem and having hip xrays , a vet recommended trigger point and she has been great since being treated.
So good you were able to find out what the problem is and put it under control! It’s always the hardest when you don’t know what’s wrong, so I can imagine you couldn’t do much of this with her as a puppy. But it sure looks like she is catching up in no time!
Oh, so to add to that, you can see why we have not done alot of initial puppy training due to a long time not knowing what would be good to do and what would be not so good.