We're starting with real sequences today, you'll get a new sequence every time and we'll always be running them in parts, starting with a small part and then adding more&more obstacles, just as you can see in the video - reward where I rewarded and then start from 1 again, meaning that you'll always be doing the whole sequence only on a 4th try or so. Whole sequences will be pretty long, to get the flow, but do NOT run a whole sequence again and again - you can run little parts several times, but the whole sequence only once or twice. Always run it without the dog first and only when you really know it, try with the dog. After every try, PLAY, give a dog a break to rehearse the next sequence on your own and only then try again.
Don't keep running the same sequence for 2 weeks!!! You can either think of another sequence on your own or keep working on multi-wraps and sends (from lesson 1 and 2). Also, don't forget to keep working on weaves and contacts, we'll get back to that later!
And Bi on the same sequence to show how things should look like on a low and then higher height:
1. introducing straight lines: after all the cik&cap work, it's time to introduce some straight lines and extension jumping too. Set a straight line of 2 or 3 jumps between two tunnels (or simply use one if you don't have two), start with some cik/cap to tunnel, cik/cap to tunnel, then straight over the first jump to cik/cap on a second jump back to tunnel, then two straight jumps to cik/cap on a third one, cik/cap again on a next jump etc. - just think of something, putting more and more straight jumps in between one and another cik/cap. See a video and again another example here:
2. sequencing: start with cik on 1, run in for a front cross between 2 and 3, ask for cap on 2 from the landing side, RUN for cik on 5 (extension jumping on 4), another cap on 6 and finishing with cik on 8, rewarding in the direction of 9.
3. bang the see-saw game: if you did the "closing drawers and doors" trick, then you're all ready for this new game. If you don't have a see-saw, you can use a small plank with something underneath so that it moves when the dog pushes it with front legs. If you have a see-saw, either lower it almost to the ground or support it so that one end is 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) off the ground and have them push it down with front feet - you can then raise it somewhat more off the ground. Do not promote 4 feet, 2 feet is better to teach them to push. Jackpot for most powerful pushes and eventually stop rewarding the gentle touches. Reward away from the see-saw, you want a push&go (I'm not doing very good job on that in the video, I forgot to bring better treats for that - a toy would actually be even better). ONLY work on this part (step 1 and 2) for next 2 weeks (no 4 feet yet!) - I included next steps in the video just to give you an idea what's the plan 🙂
I'll be answering your comments till Friday 29th. Then I'm leaving for EO and have the camp after that, so we'll be on break till 15th August so that everybody can catch up AND you can practice cik&cap some more. We're introducing straight lines too today, but if you only started with cik&cap when the class started, you still need to do quite some work on that anyway - especially exercises 1 of lesson 1 and 2! You can also keep adding height... So, plenty of work for everybody! The second week of this lesson will be from 15-21st August, with no video commenting in between. I like those breaks as they take some pressure off and I can always see a huge progress after the break!
But we are catching up! Finally set up the teeter, it is loud on the concrete. Nice and loud!
Great! Do some more of pushing if you just started (it doesn’t show!) and then move to the next step.
Here we are again, after three weeks on holidays! We have started to train on Tuesday as we took a couple of days for adjusting to reallity purposes…:).
Below you can see the video where we are practising Kit, Kep Vs Extensions, you will see that some Keps are no really great but I dont blame Darwin, Was my fault as I asked him too late, so I rewarded the same.
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Great, hard to believe you didn’t practise any meantime! His multi wraps are great and most wraps are nice too, but yes, you’re sometimes late. Also, don’t confuse him with outs vs. cik/cap, pushing the dog on the other side of the jump was not really part of this exercise (see some other videos)… But he is reading your body language really well! Also, his wraps are tight enough that you can raise the bars some now.
In this one you can see the secuence but just the final result.
The sequence actually went somewhat differently: if 3 were that side of the tunnel, then 2 wouldn’t be cap, but “jump in extension”. But well, his wraps are sure nice, but make sure you say it in time, it’s not “go + cik”, it’s just cik -- cik as such means go&collect -- you don’t have time for both and you’re too late on cik then. You can also try spreading the jumps some more to give him more room to run.
Hi Silvia,
I will start training again with my “Lizard” in a few days but can you already help in the mean time with the seesaw?
I just watched your video again. It looks like I need to move along with Keen a bit more. You mention using a toy. Do I need to really throw it then? Do you use a release or does the dogs decide when to leave the seesaw?
You video is private…
Sorry! I’s fixed.
At this stage, you should reward in a position more… From what you’re rewarding, I can’t tell what you want: 4on or 2on2off as a position at all, she just jumps on and goes off. You need to decide for a position you want on a see-saw and at this stage reward in a position, either by food or even better tugging. You can then throw it too after you release, but the important thing at the moment is rewarding in a position, so that she can learn what you want. And yes, you want holding a particular position until you say a release. I moved more in order to give her more speed going into the position, but you first need to make a position stronger as it is and then you can add more speed.
Thanks! Now it’s clear. I was just still rewarding for jumping on, nothing more nothing less. I go for a 2on2off then.
Yeap, I usually first reward pushing only and then directly go to rewarding for jumping in a position, so I guess that’s your next step now.
I think Tibby is MUCH faster! She is even doing a full curved tunnel! At the very end of the video she does a nice tight turn.
She can sure be fast when in the right mood! She can also be very tight when you give her enough info, you mostly run too deep on that last jump and only front cross after landing and that of course pushes her further out. At the very end of a video, you don’t go that far (you shouldn’t be going over the plane of the jump) AND you front cross sooner so that gives you a really nice wrap. You got some really nice ones on the other jump too, when you front cross in time. Your front crosses are definitely getting much better, now it’s just a question of practise to find a good timing that doesn’t pull her off the jump but also doesn’t push her any further as necessary.
I will work hard on that. When you point it out I can really see it. Thank you!
Hi Silvia,
First of all congraulations on your success at the National Championships 🙂
We moved onto lesson 3 today and got back to some serious training. I only have one tunnel and two winged jumps so I used one tunnel and some small stick in the ground jumps which worked okay. Considering we haven’t trained properly for around 2-3 weeks however she remembered quite a lot, the odd turn was a bit wide. The first sequence was less successful, some poles down and I misunderstood the plan and tried to turn her away from me a few times. I only realised I was wrong when I can home and watched lesson 3 video again! I would be interested to see what you think about the dropped poles. Its strange, the straight up and down exercise I thought we would find easier than the second sequence but we actually had more mistakes and found it more difficult. The second sequence was more successful but again on 6 I turned her the wrong way. Would you ever use cik/cap like that to turn the dog away from you, e.g maybe on rear cross?
Tomorrow I am at a competition but I’m going to take one pole that sticks in the ground and my clicker and some treats and really reinforce the check and dig around the pole, I’m still not sure she 100% understand the cue. I’ll also do some work on the spins (this and back) in front of me.
Thanks and best wishes,
Louise and India
The sequence sure went well! Very nice wraps! You can of course choose in which way to turn the dog, the best option sometimes depends on a dog, but I think in this situation, turning right makes more sense as it’s so much shorter and it’s actually also easier. I did some comparisons on shorter but harder (that is: more of a turn) ways vs. longer way with less difficult turn, but shorter was always faster for all my dogs, so that’s what I usually choose in trials -- with an exception of where shorter way gives me an ugly approach to contacts -- in that case, I go for longer way.
But yes, of course I also use cik&cap with rear crosses. However, India looks somewhat confused on rear vs. front cross… I think it’s because your body language is so similar: you seem to use both hands to cue both crosses? Normally, I use opposite hand to cue front cross and normal hand together with my movement pushing on their line for rear crosses. Also, you’re still often too late with your verbals and I think that’s why she is somewhat confused on that first exercise: I think that was a major reason for wide wraps, refusals and even bars -- she just seemed to be getting frustrated by then, not sure if you want her to go or turn so she is turning back to you to check (first pole) or taking it down when you say your collection cue when she is in the air (second time). The problem with saying the cue only when the dog is in the air is not only that it makes them knock it, it also makes them unsure what does it mean: turn right now or go ahead and turn over the next jump. So you can do some of that at the trial, focusing on saying it early enough to be a send and checking her understanding that it doesn’t mean to turn right now, but always around something.
Hi Silvia,
Thank you as always for your comments, I agee with it all, why I cant see that myself I will never know!
The weather here has been quite bad and now its starting to get dark by 7.30pm (I work all day) so training oppertunities are getting less. I’m going to try grabbing a space at our dog club to continue with some short sequences (indoor of an evening). Some how I will continue!
Thanks again,
Louise and India
Getting some training done sure sounds complicated with a job like that! I hope you can find a good solution!