Great job so far everybody! Again, please see as many videos of others as possible and read my comments to others too - I'm trying to bold the answers you really want to read, but the more you read, the easier it will be to understand what you're going for.
But things are mostly going well now, the only problem that I'm seeing more as expected is "up-in-the-air" movement. It looks like some dogs are leaping in order to get away from the plank. I think it's mostly due to the fact that everybody is going for those narrow planks and those are hard to run full speed on + they might sometimes be stepping on the edge and that can be uncomfortable and make them want to leave it as soon as possible. So again - it's no hurry to get to a narrow plank!!! If you can use two, side by side, with a carpet over, that would be perfect!
Anyway, here is your new list:
1. gradually make that plank higher&higher, still jackpotting the best hits, but make a criteria for a jackpot somewhat more strict and at this point also already stop clicking the highest hits even if the dog is striding equally - but at this point, don't click anymore the highest 20% of the hits you're getting (meaning that from 10 tries, don't click the highest 2 hits). It's no problem if the dog still gets the toy, just take it immediately when he comes back. When it's good, praise and tug and when it's especially good, be especially excited and play especially enthusiastically 🙂 And yes, dogs are smart enough to know the difference.
2. as the dog is probably already searching for the plank better, slowly start throwing sooner&sooner. Don't rush it, but you eventually want to throw that soon that the dog is technically running to a static toy. But again, you don't want to get there sooner as in 3 weeks as it's only then that we'll start using a static toy - you do want to throw it for those 3 weeks more! It's better to throw somewhat longer if necessary - usually not an issue with BCs, but with my puppy, I needed to throw VERY long to keep the speed and focus - if any of that gets weaker when you start throwing sooner, go back to whatever gives you back the speed and forward focus, we can deal with that later!
3. as you are still throwing a toy, your movement and position probably won't affect the dog's performance - but just to be sure, do try to run with the dog here and there, just to check if that's correct. If it does affect your dog's performance, add movement gradually, by first walking slowly along, then walking faster, running slowly etc. You don't need to do it on every try, especially not if it doesn't affect the performance, but do try it here and there.
4. another difficulty we can slowly start introducing now is changing starting position of your dog. Don't use the best spot all the time anymore, but vary it a little bit. If it makes their hits too bad, go back to the good starting position. But bad hit here and there is good, that's how they learn the difference between what gets rewarded and what doesn't.
5. new trick: shape a dog to go with all 4 feet in a box that is ideally as long as he is. Then gradually use smaller&smaller objects, your goal is the dog is standing with 4 feet in a small bowl. Good for balance and rear legs awareness! Also, teach backing up with you standing still, by throwing a reward for them first for one step back, then two and then add more&more distance. Great for rear legs awareness and coordination!
Send videos of the tricks and the plank work. For slow motion part of a plank work, PLEASE cut out all the parts where I can't see the dog! It's very time consuming and not much fun to watch just the plank or you, throwing a ball, in slow motion!
Also, here is a video showing different striding on a dog-walk. My puppy Le is showing the most common striding: two hits on up plank, two in the middle, two on down. Bu has this same striding. Bi can only do that if I start her from such an angle that she has no speed coming up. Her normal striding is 4 steps on whole dog-walk, on down ramp rear feet hit first and then she lands front feet above the contact, hind feet in the middle. I think that since US dog-walks are significantly shorter as mine, many of your BCs might end with this striding. Bi usually does shorter dog-walks in 3 steps (our dog-walks come in different lengths) - you can see one of those tries in this video too. She is pretty high on my dog-walk, but comes deeply in in 3 strides on shorter ones. At the end, you can see what big area she is covering with one hit, thanks to good reach forward and hind feet separation - with one hit, she is touching almost 40% of a down ramp, that's 1,5m!
Hello,
Voici la vidéo du jour, nous sommes retombées à 58% de bon avec les changements de départs et de lancé ! Pas terrible ! Le lancé un peu plus tôt n’a pas l’air de trop la géner
Avec le harnais c’est plus facile …
Mauvais: 5,6,12,13,14,15,16,21,22,27,28,29,30,31,32
httpv://www.dailymotion.com/video/k2Pxj5JhU95fC12htta5CP
Here’s the video of the day, we fallout to 58% good, with the changes of departures and launched! Not terrible! The launched earlier did not seem to embarrass her
With the harness it is easier …
Your link doesn’t work (even when I copy only the part from www on). However, I wouldn’t change her starting point so much to drop down to 58%. Try to make it somewhat easier.
Pour le lancé, je veux dire que si je ne lance pas dans la ligne de la passerelle elle suis la trajectoire du jouet et sort de la passerelle ……..
For the toy I mean if I do not throw in line of the plank she follow the trajectory of the toy and left the plank ……..
Ah, o.k., that’s normal yes, nothing to worry about.
Hi Silvia,
I’m just an auditor but so appreciate being able to ask a question! Thank you!
Currently I’m running my 1 yr old BC after a thrown ball on two 11-inch, 12-foot planks nailed together, placed on a cinder block, which elevates the one end at about 10 inches. So: 22″ wide plank, 10″ off the ground.
In assignment #2 you ask us to begin adding difficulties, which includes varying the setup distance as well as introducing motion from the handler; you also ask us to work on more exercises to begin to explain to the dog that we’re clicking for those feet so they can understand, and this all makes sense!
So…at what point should we begin narrowing the plank vs. the height raised? You’ve told us that the occasional running on the ground next to the plank will disappear once the height is clear enough, but I wasn’t sure when or even how to do this. Obviously easiest would be to simply remove one of the planks; I’m not sure it would be too easy to cut the long plank in half lengthwise, and then round the edges.
Also, if we have an adjustable dog walk, at what point should we be switching to that vs the plank?
Thank you so much-- This course is great! My Mal (re-training to RCs) and BC and I—- we’re loving it!
Rhea
I would keep working on a double board up to 20 inches or so and then go to a low dog-walk. First, I would put a double plank on it and have the dog start on a top of a down ramp, meaning on a narrow part, to get them used to the narrowness, and then simply remove the double plank after a couple of sessions. I never encountered the problem with going from wide to a narrow plank -- other than with one extremely big and wide Beardie: for him, we needed to make the plank more narrow more gradually. But normally, it’s not a problem at all, so I wouldn’t worry about it. Getting from a plank to a dog-walk can be more of a problem (especially with a retrain!), so start with down ramp only first and then move the dog further back. Happy training!
Hi Silvia,
I need to understand our progression a bit better. There is one point at the cross plank of the lowered dogwalk that always gets Beatrice into the “zone.” Moving her back just a bit, maybe 1/2 meter gets us a very very shallow hit. Moving her back more just gets a leap. Should I mostly be just starting her from her best point right now? I guess I’m not sure how to relate our stage of progress to the lesson 2 assignment. Does this question make sense? Because I just finished a session with all very shallow hits from back of her best spot. Is this an expected and acceptable stage?
Thanks,
Heidi
When you have a new variable that the dog finds hard, you stop varying everything else, help as much as possible to get bigger successful rate and only then start to change other variables too. So for now, as she finds new set up so hard, start her from her good spot. Then, to eventually get to a full dog-walk, try to move her back for full length of her stride: if you move her back significantly, but not enough to fit in one more stride, it’s normal that she finds it hard.
Once you get good hits on full dog-walk, you can start to challenge her again. Till then, do whatever works best with her as far as starting point, timing of a throw, your position etc. is concerned. It’s good to have a good set-up that will always give you some successful hits when things go wrong. For example, when I started teaching turns to Bu, her straight forward contacts got worse: but setting the dog-walk between two tunnels always give me most beautiful hits. If things go wrong with Bi, I just need to take some speed off, start her from zero speed right in front of the contact and she will be nicely in. -- This helps us get back on track if something goes wrong because of that or another added variable.
Thank you Silvia. That makes sense. I was trying to change too many things at once. She just needs more successful repetitions, we will go for challenges later. Glad I asked.
Heidi
I just wanted to let you know that it was such a relief to have a 100% awesome session this morning. Set Beatrice up in her sweet spot and let her run through her zone. She was happy and I was relieved. Only one leap when I gave a very strange throw. I guess we will just keep having this successful fun for 4 or so more sessions and then go to the lowered DW. We will then find her sweet spot again and do several sessions before worrying about changing any variables.
Does that sound like what you are trying to teach me?
Yeap, that sounds good! 🙂
Hi Silvia,
Well Beatrice and I worked for 5 or so good sessions on the ‘extra’ lowered dog walk. Then we went to the regular lowered dog walk. We had about 4 sessions doing well just starting from her ‘sweet spot’. This is our most recent session and only the second time I changed her starting spot. You will see that I moved her all the way back to the start of the horizontal board. I think she is doing well. I am still have a hard time being sure of what I am seeing to better differentiate the very best hits in ‘real time’.
Do you have any advice for me about what we should be doing while you are away? I think we are not yet ready for the exercises in the next lesson, is that right? I was thinking several more session starting on the dog walk and then, if all is going well, try running the whole dogwalk?
Thanks in advance!
Heidi and Beatrice.
Looks good, just be careful about hind feet: I preferred 6 over 12 for example because of that reason. But you sure got some perfect ones, make big deal out of those! As she seems to be running better now when you start her further back, I think you can move her back to run the whole dog-walk pretty fast now, in a session or two. Once there, I would definitely try some variables, like running with her etc. and then also start the transition to a toy, thrown after the jump. If leaping reappears at any point, take the problematic variable away immediately and then introduce it SLOWLY again. If everything goes well, you can introduce something almost every other session: either your movement, earlier toy or some more height.
Thanks, Sylvia. That plan will keep me busy untill you get back, I’m sure. It is nice to see the improvement in running from further back. What fun to watch her progress (as well as the rest of the class).
I am confused, though, that you like 6 more that 12. Really? Because 6 looks to me like a very shallow hit, and 12 like her rear feet are quite deep in the zone. It makes me think that I don’t have the right idea yet. Could you clarify that?
Beatrice is just now starting her jump training. Probably by the time she is doing well running the whole dogwalk and gotten used to several variable, she’ll be ok to jump after the dog walk. Right now she is just going through jump standards to learn her handling.
Thanks for letting me know about 6 and 12
Heidi
Yes, 6 is not ideal, she is too high, but she has good hind feet separation while on 12, her hind feet are completely together and not hitting much further as front feet: that’s what I don’t like about that hit and that’s why I wrote you to not forget about hind feet separation. With the jump after the dog-walk, I didn’t really mean a real high jump, jump standards with a bar on the floor are perfectly o.k. Also when I put a bar up and the toy after it, I keep the bar very low, like 6 inches -- no need to do a real jump after, it’s just to focus them on an obstacle (as you will have those on a course -- and no ball) -- you could also use a short straight tunnel instead.
OK, I understand now. Ideally I would not reward #6 because it is such a high hit and I would click but not jackpot 12? In reality, I think I am jackpotting a whole bunch of stuff, because I am not entirely sure what I am seeing…but I do think that I’m getting better at it.
Thanks for your guidance, you really are making this training so much fun for the Oregon poodle!
Heidi and Beatrice
I worked Sage on a full height dogwalk again tonight and she was quite consistent with her striding on the down plank, one stride. 🙁 Every single time she ran the full dogwalk she only hit once on the down plank. Other than that it was beautiful! Her speed was great, nice hind feet seperation, and confidence. She seemed quite happy with that striding. I don’t think she’ll change it on her own. To get some good hits I started her at the very begining of the middle plank. She had gorgous hits from there. I’m not sure what to do. The thing I love about this method is you don’t slow the dog down or make them collect or hit an exact spot. I’m at a loss. What should I do??
When they go for 4 strides on a dog-walk, the correct striding is pretty hard to figure out, she would need to put hind feet at the top of a down ramp and then her next stride would take her in -- like Bi does on a video where she does 4 strides. For this stride pattern, they need some more tries to figure it out AND they need to know very well that it’s VERY important to come all the way down. That’s what this lesson is all about: challenging the dog to make them see the importance of low hits, not rewarding high hits anymore and trying to get them understand that when necessary, they need to adjust their striding. So, I would do some more work on that on a plank -- jackpot for any attempt to adjust the stride, even if they are not perfect 🙂 -- that’s still better as not trying at all 🙂 When on a dog-walk, try to think how to help her extend the existing strides so that she comes deeper in… Usually, I would advise a toy thrown in advance, but that probably won’t work with her? Another option would be to find a really speedy approach (from a tunnel?) and push her by running as fast as you can and saying go-go or something…
As you know with little Spur his perfect hit is three strides. What is happening now as I am running some sequences is when there is a turn and I pull off he is speeding up and trying for two strides, which causes a miss or very high hit and coming off the side a little. My thought is that I should use a pole at the end and that might cause him to adjust to fit in that third stride?
The problem is rather unusual. On turns, they usually do the same amount of strides, but make them shorter in preparation of the turn, so they end up too high. To keep them in full extension on curves, I introduce curves slowly by moving the exit jump a little -- that will be a topic for the next lesson. I usually don’t use a pole for that. I only use a pole for lesson 4 exercise 🙂 , when we want to teach them the collection and adding additional stride for more serious turns. -- Not sure what kind of sequences are you talking about, real turns or curves? If first, you can try with a pole, if second, try introducing curves slowly, to keep the same striding as on straight exists. -- Hope that makes some sense?
OK, well, we have never worked turns, just started sequencing and this has only happened a couple times, so it may not be a pattern at all, but just the situation on those days.
It is hard not to panic when we have been having such great success and 100%, then these few misses in a short time.
The couple misses he has had have been in this set up, which is a very gradual turn, not a sharp turn or the one miss we had a couple weeks ago when I was able to toss him to a jump, then I ran with everything I had to get a blind cross in at the end of the DW. I think that surprised him that I was up there so far and he got going too fast trying to catch up with me.
Thank you! I’ll try working some curves slowly in the coming days.
With three-strided down ramp, you probably do’t even really need to work on turns, but definitely do some training with you in front -- I always forget it as I see the contacts better from behind, but it’s very important too. You should also be able to have some lateral distance and have him do his normal striding when there is no obstacle directly in front and you’re going in a curve -- but yes, you need to prepare him for that gradually. About real turns, I wouldn’t worry too much, even if you only call after he is on a contact, that should give you a reasonably good turn.
Thank you! I just set up his tunnel a bit off to the side, so it wasn’t directly in front of the end, but moved over some. He ended up shortening his stride and having very high hits. But, I do think if I practice that a few times he will figure it out.
Yes, what you are saying about no obstacle in front and me going in a curve was what caused the misses, but I think with the off set tunnel I can practice that and see if I can get him deeper. I do have to go really slow, though, I moved the tunnel more than I should and when he didn’t get a jackpot he started to wring his paws. So, I just moved the opening about two feet over from directly in front and he had some hits I could reward. High, but hits and I think I can get those lower with practice.
I’m a little confused. Do you think Sage should be doing the down ramp in one or two hits? She always did it in two on the raised plank, one sometimes on a completely flat plank. Also, in this last session I was throwing the ball for Sage when she was on the middle plank. I think that combined with more room to run after the plank encouraged more extension and only one hit. Just curious, is running to a static toy the same as running to food? Do I need to work on Sage running to a static toy or can I just use food for those times?
Not one and not two, but one and a half 🙂 If you see my video, I show Bi’s stride pattern when she does 3, 4 and 5 steps on a dog-walk. When she does 4, she has front feet close to an end of horizontal plank, then rear feet on top of a down ramp, then front feet above the contact and hind feet in. I think on US dog-walks that are shorter as ours, many dogs will have this striding. It’s not as logical for the dog to figure it out as flying over the top + putting in additional stride, but I don’t think it’s enough room on your length for most bigger dogs. You COULD try to get 5 by starting her in the middle first and then not doing many speedy approaches, but usually, added stride is hard to get in the excitement of a trial. Extending existing strides usually works better, that’s why I suggested a thrown toy. I guess that for the short time period when we’ll be using a static toy, you could as well use food -- I normally use a toy as they’re usually still run faster as towards the toy.
Oh ok! I re-watched the video and it makes sense now. 🙂 Yeah, that seems like a really good compromise. 🙂 Now the hard part, showing Sage what I want. Lets see if I have this right: I should go back to the plank and challenge her to see if she’ll adjust her stride when needed. On just the plank is 1 1/2 strides even possible? Hummm… if I kept the plank low, like 22 inches, it would be even with my deck so she wouldn’t have to jump onto it. It might resemble a low dogwalk??? Would you still reward two strides? How about one if she really extends? I’m trying to figure out how to shape 1 1/2…. I’m afraid the reinforcement rate will get so low she’ll start slowing down. Would you try tunnel dogwalk tunnel like you suggested to a couple of other people to try to keep her having fun??? Should I stop doing the dogwalk for awhile or do it at the same time as the plank? How did Bi figure it out??? Thanks for all your help. I would be completely stuck without you!
P.S. I’m definitely gonna need to video my training sessions to see if she’s figuring it out.
You’re right, it’s very unlikely you’ll get this stride pattern on just the plank. What you want on a plank is to get her adjust the stride to get nicely on a contact… If you search among my comments -- if you see me saying “I think she is starting to understand” or similar -- it usually means I can see SOME adjustments already. 2 strides are o.k., of course, you want to see if she can shorten or extend the second one to meet the criteria depending on how far the first stride took her. When she can do it on a plank, see if she is trying and doing some adjustments on a dog-walk. Reward for trying. Basically, you don’t want even striding anymore -- you want to see her trying to do some adjustments. You can do it in tunnel-DW-tunnel set-up yes.
Bi originally did two strides on a down ramp as we only trained it on a plank before DW. Once she added more speed, the contacts got bad as she was trying one stride only, but as that didn’t do, she started to experiment and came up with this pattern.
Ok thanks. 🙂 Do you mind if I send in a video when I think she’s making adjustments? Just to make sure I’m seeing it right. I’m excited this seems like the final piece to the rc puzzle. 😀 Thanks your explainations are great. 🙂
Sure, send it!
Hello
Voici le bon lien pour la vidéo
Here’s the correct link for the video
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/k3hwosHIaZlRWV2a5CP
Looks great! She is sometimes somewhat high, when she does 2 steps, but she is not leaping, so it actually looks good enough to me to add some more height. Great job!
httpv://www.dailymotion.com/video/k4oiLQcRqk9bcE2a5CP
!!!!
Yeah, it doesn’t work that way with DailyMotion, only with YouTube. I found the video before though, but always have problems uploading them, both yours and Pauline’s who is also using DailyMotion -- it’s getting stuck all the time -- not sure if everybody has those problems?
Hi Silvia:
Shona and Bender here. Since our last video (May 20) I raised the height by 3 inches to 14 inches on our mini aframe set up. By our 3rd session everything was going well -- so I decided to raise it by 3 more inches. I didn’t like how Bender jumped the apex of the aframe so decided to change it. I have two 10 foot long planks (11 inches wide) so I made a mini DW setup this time. But Bender started leaping…..
I went away for 4 days to our Regional Agility Championships so that was a good break. Once back this week and catching up on all your comments I realized I changed things too much…… I have kept the height at 14 inches. I introduced the DW set up slowly -- started restraining Bender on the top plank -- but he didn’t like digging into the wood (now I know why you used carpet on your set up….) and I didn’t think he was running fast enough. I also tried my 2 foot wide boards as the approach ramp to make it look similiar to the old set up. I experimented with different starting positions, recalls, and throwing toys early and late but Bender was still not hitting the contact. Then yesterday I figured out what works -- I send Bender out to wrap around a wing standard about 12 feet from the up plank and he has no problem running at speed across the top. I also started throwing the toy much later…..This video is our training session from this morning -- unfortunately the first 10 attempts were not recorded (no memory left in camera…) so Bender is getting abit tired at the end of these 9 runs.
Comments: #4 and #7 I jackpotted because of low hits but worried now about rewarding front foot hits (after reading all the comments…)
#6 I probably should not have rewarded because it was such a high hit
# 8 and #9 I think Bender was tired and the toy was thrown too late…
I hope this set up is acceptable. I am abit confused about using the full dogwalk set up since there is alot of speed for Bender to get used to and to adjust his striding. Is it easier for the dogs to figure out the speed at the lower angles of a full DW set up or is it easier to do more stationary plank work and build up to the angle of the DW first before you get full speed?
thanks,
Shona
Well, that looks good now! #4 and#7 actually look pretty good as that front leg is in the middle, not lower third of the contact, it doesn’t look “accidental”. I still prefer two feet in, but those two were definitely to be rewarded -- maybe not to jackpot, but don’t worry about it. It was also perfectly o.k. to reward #6, you don’t want to have too strict criteria too soon.
The set up looks good. It’s hard to answer your question as I never worked on low dog-walk, I always only had room for a plank. I still like to do beginning stages on a plank as there are less things to distract the dog from figuring out what this exercise is all about -- and you can do more repetitions before the dog gets tired as there is less running involved. But yes, as soon as the dog can’t jump on a plank anymore, it’s hard to find appropriate objects to get good speed over the plank, so for bigger, long-strided dogs, mini dog-walk is definitely a nice option to have, I would just keep working that way.
Thanks Silvia. I find the front feet contacts harder to judge -- it is definitely easier to see the rear feet when I’m behind. I will keep rewarding them as long as they are 2 feet and not the 1 foot “accidental type”
I do find the mini dog-walk set up very stable for Bender and will try for less repetitions because of the more running. Our regulation dogwalks are 36 feet long and in Canada they are also slatless. This mini set-up is 10 -- 10 and 12 feet. Once we get up to 24 inches we can switch over to my friend’s lowered dogwalk (15 minutes away) and it can be raised 2 inches at a time on its supports. So that should work out great. I’m glad I’m spending the time now to get Bender’s speed and striding sorted out.
I will work at this height for a few more sessions and throw the ball sooner…
Tricks are coming along well and will get them taped and sent in.
Shona
Hi Silvia,
Finally i can get the videos up. I added a little bit height to the planks, im not sure if you can see the height, it’s not that obvious. I think Toby did not bad, I have a few favorites from those 9 tries. but the bad thing is that the planks were shaky when he was running on it. I will definitely need to fix it for our next training session. Do you think that i can add more height to the planks?
For 4 in a box training with Toby, i started with 2 boxes as he’s pretty big, then i reduced to one bigger one, then went with a smaller one. I will work a couple more sessions with smaller one this week, then try to reduce the size again. Let me know if anything that i need to change. Thanks a lot
Yeap, you definitely need to fix the planks better! You can add more height yes, it looks good -- other than hind feet separation on those two tries… Definitely better throws now 🙂 Getting there with 4in some more work on this size and then try smaller one. Usually, the easiest way to introduce a smaller one is to put in a bigger already known one.
Thank you for the reply, yes I’ll fix the planks and I love the idea of putting smaller box into a bigger one 🙂
Hi Silvia:
Anne and Tai here. I am posting our first plank-work session today and would like your feedback. Other parts of the homework video will be posted tomorrow. My goal in this session was to be more clear about what I’m rewarding. I want Tai to understand that I want low hits and that he needs to manage his striding to get them. Good news is that I think I’m getting better at recognizing what to reward, jackpot or mark as no reward. I hope you agree based on the video. Out of 18 tries, we had 4 good low hits (7,8,17,18) 5 leaps (6, 9, 11, 15, 16) -- one of these I rewarded unfortunately. The rest were running through but not low hits which I rewarded. Some of these had only slight rear feet separation.
I’ve noticed that sometimes his rear feet separation is great when landing on the plank and when exiting the plank, but less so on his second stride on the plank. Your thoughts?
We had a second session later in the day. My goal was to be consistent with the timing of my throw and his starting position; and to be clear about what I’m rewarding. Out of 12 reps, we had 2 leaps, 5 low hits and the rest were running through but his second stride extended across the contact zone.
Feedback needed!
Thx
Anne & Tai
Did you ever try starting him further away? His stride looks unnaturally short and hind feet too close together -- possibly because he is just starting. Allowing him to come to the plank with more speed would probably give you better striding. If hits are still high, it’s probably because of a set up, you would get lower hits if his first contact with the plank would be with front feet -- as on 17 for example (vs. 15 for example when he first gets in with hind feet). At this point his hits depend mostly on how he starts, so I would adjust the set up so that he gets more low hits to have more things to jackpot: meaning that I would either make the starting object shorter or longer and, as already said, I would definitely be starting him from further away. I would focus on a form of running, not the hits so much yet, as I’m not too happy with the way he runs in this video -- but as I said, starting him further (maybe by sending him around something?) might do the trick. Try to tape him coming on a plank with more speed and post it to see how he runs there. It’s only when we find how to make him run normally and get low hits by accident, thanks to the starting point, that we can focus on getting the understanding of low hits -- I think it’s too early for that now, but would like to see the video when he is starting further back.
Yes, I was starting him quite a bit further back ( as much as 20ft) and I agree that I liked his striding much better. I was having trouble getting consistency from one session to another. One session he would be awesome and the next I would get significant leaping. So I guess I was actually hoping to slow things down to help him understand I didn’t want the leaping. Will try again from further back and see what happens. I understand your point…running form is most important….will post again soon to get your feedback. Thx. Anne
Yeah, I still prefer some leaps and some beautiful running tries vs. something in the middle, as in this video… The problem was probably the same: it probably depends on how he enters the plank. You can try to change the set up (add another table?) and see if that helps with giving you more consistent running.