School time for our puppies! Here is your first to-do list.
Just a short note first: there are lots of tasks waiting for you in this class as I like to keep it interesting also for those dogs who already know some of the tricks. HOWEVER, make sure you're not focusing on teaching too much as fast as possible, to the degree of trying to help/lure - but instead take the time and focus on the fun part. In order not to make you feel under pressure, I will be underlining the tasks you should focus on in each lesson. The rest you can do if the underlined exercises are going well, but we don't need those for the next lesson, so it doesn't hurt if you address those later.
1. The first task might sound a little silly for those with adult dogs, but in fact, it's never silly to make a recall even better! Call your dog at least 10 times a day to do something fun together: to play, to go out, to get a treat, something to chew on or a new exciting toy
2. put a plate (or another object, but I like to start with a plate as puppies can't chew on those too easily) on a floor and shape a puppy to touch it with a front paw: you can first click for head movement in the right direction, then one/two/three steps towards the plate, then stepping over it or close to it and finally for stepping on it
3. sit on a floor and put a fist full of treats or dog's favourite toy right in front of their nose, wait till they stop sniffing and click for anything they try other than getting directly to the food/toy or staring at it. It's very important the dog understands staring at food/toy doesn't get him anywhere as it will later on allow you to work with food/toys in your hand without distracting the dog's focus from the job at hand.
4. find a box or a drawer that is as long as your dog and not too high and shape a dog to put 1-2-3-4 legs into it. Then try with smaller&smaller objects, final goal is the dog can stand with all 4 feet in a small bowl.
5. observe your puppy and see if he sometimes stretches his legs out when in down position, puppies often do that when relaxed or playing. Name it (I call it "frog":) and reward. It's a nice stretching exercise and very easy to get it on cue if the dog does it naturally (some dogs do it as adults too, but mine didn't and it was much harder to train it as with puppy Le who was doing that naturally). If not, put a dog in a down position and reward from the floor and so far ahead that the dog needs to stretch out to get it - but not so far that he would crawl ahead. Watch the hind legs and click for moving them back OR out, but NOT for crawling step forward. It usually helps if you try to get them stretch over a pillow, like in this video:
Looking forward to see your videos! You can send them in one or more pieces, but keep the total length of the videos sent per lesson under 10min. Don't wait until you master the tricks before sending your videos, just post whatever you're working on for some feedback.
Here is a video of Star’s progress in the box. This is the 3rd smaller sized box we’ve used and I think she might be ready to move down again.
I noticed that she would step out of the box to balance when I reached for the treats (and Judy noticed as well) so I went to having multiple treats in my hand. I also noticed that she was a bit more frantic at the start but then settled down once we got working.
Anything else I should be doing (or not doing) at this point?
Deb
She sure looks very enthusiastic! 🙂 And yes, I always have treats in my hand to be able to reward quickly and still in the right position.I also like to sit on the floor for this exercise to keep their head low the whole time as it really helps with their balance (and not sitting) -- especially important as the box gets smaller. And yes, she looks ready for the next size!
And here’s Star practicing her frog. At about 1 minute into the video we switched to a slightly smaller pillow. It’s the same design, but thinner & shorter.
I noticed in someone else’s video that they put the pillow at an angle rather than directly facing them. This seemed to help A LOT since Star stretches out so far.
Deb
Almost there! Keep this second pillow for few sessions more to get a complete stretch back before trying next size. But she is sure doing great, this can be a really hard one for adult dogs.
Here’s video of Papu doing paw targets. We have done this with bowl before but now with anything else. As you can see on the video I’m not good with the blue target (piece of yoga mat) and I often click even when he’s not touching with both paws. And if I’m late, he always offers down… One paw touches went really well considering that this is our first training session! I think we’re ready to add cues. If I train a cue for one paw touch and accept either paw, how do I then train a cue for “the other one”?
Looks good! Ready to add cues! After I get both paws one-paw touches 🙂 , I for some time only click one to name it and then come back to the other one to name that one.
Hi Silvia! This is our last video, Astro is very cute, I was getting ready to work and when I turned back he was doing the frog trick 🙂
with the target I´m clicking everything 🙂 when he touches with one paw and two, Should I keep working the same way?
thanks
Wow, that’s a really great frog! Great job with 4in too, what a balance! And yes, anything goes for now: one, another or both paws 🙂 Great progression with food ignoring too, what a smart puppy! I wanted to write smart little puppy, but hey, he is BIG! 🙂
thanks Silvia:) I’m really happy with Astro, he learns fast :), he will be 5 months old next wendsday. I love your class
Looks like you’re faster as I am 🙂 Try to use a power of jackpots even more: mark breakthroughs even more enthusiastically and reward with even more treats. Very enthusiastic paw touches too!
Hello Silvia
Thank you for your feedback re above video. I will work on that. 🙂
HOWEVER, I am very unhappy with this website. 🙁
I can’t find the other two videos I uploaded yesterday. I saw them yesterday but can’t find them today.
Please HELP me! 🙂
Ivana—I think your other videos are on page 8 of “Puppy Class October” instead of “Lesson 1” like your latest one above.
Hi Kathy
Thank you for your reply. I found them again. 🙂
Thanks Kathy!!!
We were going to post some video, but yesterday when we got all set up Pippa suddenly couldn’t do her 4 in at all! She had been doing it very nicely last week. When I felt her, her front was very hot -- I think she’s gone and hurt herself somehow. So instead of video Pippa will rest for a few days and we will have to make do with a progress report.
She has amazing paw touches -- left paw, right paw, both paws -- to a plastic lid on the floor or held up off the ground, and to my hand. Pippa loves this trick! (She loves her skateboard too.) Her 4 in was coming along nicely until a few days ago -- not brilliant, but coming along nicely. She has a horrible difficulty with “frog” -- I couldn’t get any stretch at all until day before yesterday and it is still one leg at a time. But it makes us laugh — our girl doesn’t see the point of any trick where she has to be still or move slowly! 🙂
I hope Pippa is o.k. soon! It was very smart to not push her into it, but check her and see she might be sore. Maybe you did too much of 4in lately? It’s important to challenge them, but not do too many repetitions. The same with frog. It can be really hard for some dogs, so don’t rush it, one leg at the time is already great!
Hi, here’s our lesson 1 video.
We having a little problem with switching to a smaller plate in the 4in, as Mia sometimes gets scared, if the plate moves under her feet.
However we are having fun, and the few times I have forgotten to train her, she reminds me :o)
Great frog and food ignorance! Very cool 4in, looks ready for an even smaller bowl, but first give her a little break from this trick and then make sure you don’t do so many repetitions that she would get bored! But yes, you definitely need to make those recalls more fun, I agree with Sharon here. Try running away as you call and make a big party right away as she comes: no sit, just party!
Hi, I’m definitely having problems with recall. When she was a puppy, I could make her come at any time no matter what she was doing.
When she became a teenager, she seems to have become a controlfreak. She has to be in control of people passing by (she runs to them and barks at them), especially if they are on bikes, or if children and big dogs are passing. :o)
You could try a sherpa bag, taking her to challenging situations and rewarding her for staying calm in her crate. In less challenging environments, try practising a stay on a mat and watching calmly things that she likes to bark at. Then slowly move closer and add challenges. If she goes into a barking mode (ideally you progress so slowly it doesn’t happen!), immediately remove her from a situation and try again further away where she can stay calm. The important thing is that she can’t practise her barking behaviour further, so only progress slowly enough that she stays calm. In situations you can’t avoid that might provoke barking, keep her extra focused on you by doing favourite tricks, playing or even taking her in a lap if necessary.
Hi Silvia, we do not have a crate. Should we buy one? What is a sherpa bag?
Mia & Lara
Yes, I think a crate would help to keep her feel safe and calm. You can buy a small&soft one that you can hang on your shoulder -- that’s a sherpa bag. Something like this: http://www.doget.si/trgovina/index.php/psi/oprema/prenosne-torbe.html
How do I know what size to buy?
MiaLara,
The type of barking you describe is not really a “controlling the strangers” problem, but is a typical fear response. Unsure dogs learn that barking causes the scary person or bike to go away. Even if the person or bike was going past anyway--the dog thinks the barking was responsible for them leaving.
Years ago, I visited a new puppy class student at their home. On my way to leave through the door, an adult Sheltie came out from under their sofa and bit me on the leg. I didn’t even know they had a Sheltie. They didn’t consider the biting Sheltie a problem, as they thought he was “protecting them.” In fact, a dog that bites people who are already leaving are likely to be doing it for self-protection, from fear. Anyway, your dog is just at the barking stage now, but it can progress further if you don’t address it with training and desensitization.
I totally agree with Silvia’s suggestions.
In addition, once you realize the barking is likely from fear, not from bossy-ness, it also helps to stay calm yourself, like singing, yawning or laughing when these things come into view (preferably before your dog reacts). If you turn away from the people/bike and rake your fingers lazily through the grass while yawning, your dog will realize from your body language that the approaching object isn’t really that scary or deserve anybody’s attention.
BTW, a Sherpa bag is a cloth pet-transport bag used in airplane cabins.
Hi Sharon,
Thank you for giving specific advice on how I shall react, the situations makes me feel completely powerless.
I know that she is reacting out of fear.
(Mia) & Lara
MiaLara, I just tried posting a long comment about your recall, but it disappeared. I’ll try again… 🙂
Before I start: I don’t know if other students are allowed to make suggestions or if that’s only for Silvia. Silvia, it’s fine to give me a stern collar correction (ha ha) if this is not allowed. 🙂
MiaLara, your work and relationship with your puppy are great. He/she is a totally adorable little cutie. My only suggestions are about the come command.
You might not want to have the “sit” included in your recall criteria I train for high-level obedience, but my “formal come with sit” is a completely different trick from the “informal, fast, emergency come.” Many trainers find that demanding a sit for every “come” (formal or informal) makes dogs come very slowly and they lose motivation.
I train 50 “fast, informal “comes” for every 1 formal obedience come-with-sit… and as a result, my dogs spin 180 degrees and gallop to me at “light speed” every time I call, anywhere, in any situation--including obedience competitions. If my puppy/dog under 13 years old is only “trotting” instead of galloping, I reconsider my rewards and ramp up the happiness!
I like to make myself unpredictable. Here are some things I do when my dog arrives: 1) I run away with a tug toy and dog chases me. 2) I throw a tug toy behind me, between my legs, so the dog can run after it. (Encourages dog to come close for later “formal come”) 3) Do #1 or #2 with a food treat. 4) I fall on the ground and make silly noises, and the puppy climbs on me and licks my face. 5) As puppy arrives, we both run towards an agility jump (5 cm), puppy goes over and I throw food or toy ahead for a treat. 6) Puppy comes, I click, and we race out of the yard for a leash walk around the neighborhood. 6) Puppy comes, I click, and we race into a room where the puppy’s dinner is waiting for him on the floor. (This all happens in < 5 seconds).
One more thing: I like to have the treat/toy in one hand (behind my back) before calling, so I can deliver the treat or toy the exact second the puppy arrives. If there's a few second delay--especially when incorporating a "sit"--the puppy won't realize he/she is being rewarded for the "come," but will think the reward is for only the "sit" or even the "stay."
Best wishes, and I look forward to seeing your future videos.
Sharon—Thanks for all the ideas on making the reward for recalls unpredictable. I think they are key for a good recall but sometimes I forget & get too predictable which gets boring for my dogs. 🙂 Can’t wait to try #4! 🙂
Thanks!
Hi Kathy
I do similar things as Sharon when calling my 5 month old pup. When I call her I just make encouraging ‘puppypuppy’ etc. sounds and only call her name when she is really close. I usually give a treat but sometimes I have a treat that I feed her slowly and I speak nicely to her at the same time so that the reward is of longer duration.
I also reinforce as she runs over to me by calling out encouraging sounds/words.
Also, when she arrives I never do anything unpleasant i.e. put her on a leash or lock her up etc. When I want to do that I get her. 🙂
Thanks Sharon for the great ideas!
Sharon
Thanks for sharing your ideas re recall. I could use toys more often. 🙂
Yeap, toys are actually perfect for recalls as they give you even more speed and you can party about that great recall longer as with just a treat! 🙂
Hi Sharon, thank you for your advice and for taking the time to help, I really appreciate that. I have printed your advice and will start working on it right away :o)
Another session with Trumpet. I feel I need to clean up our paw touches; I’d like a more clean cut, one paw on disc, not all this bowing and nose touching. I’ve gone a size smaller on 4in and we’re trying to add some duration. Tat in the meantime will only give me a couple of 4in reps then she’ll either lay down or leave…she really doesn’t like that exercise.
I think using a paw target for the lesson 2 exercises will help to clean it up, so I would simply go further with it, his understanding is good enough to progress to the next step and that will help him see it’s actually not about the bow 🙂 But this “jump into a bow” is actually so cute that you might want to take it further and make a cool new trick out of it! Getting there with 4in, but he really needs to work hard on his balance, so again, I would stay on this size for a while, adding duration and then go smaller again. Might be Tat finds it difficult too and that’s why she doesn’t like it? How big is her box now?
What a good idea. I’ll have to find a good cue for jumping into a bow. Maybe “kill the spider” LOL.
Tat seems to do okay when I use a regulation sized frisbee as her “box”. I think she finds the high sides of the box too difficult because she works much better when I ask for 4 paws ON something. But her default behaviour does seem to be a down. I’m having trouble teaching her to back up because she always lies down, so for now I’m teaching her to stand so she will hopefully use that position a little more often.
I solved my own problem!! Love it when that happens, lol. I did a training session with Tat in the bathroom on a hard floor so she wasn’t lying down, and I used a toy as a reward for backing up. By the end of our short session I was getting a couple of steps backwards 🙂
Only saw this after my reply, but hey, that’s a great idea! And yes, toys are actually even better for backing up as food as you can toss them better -- AND they often give you more action!
“Kill the spider” would be perfect!!! 🙂 And right, if Tat prefers 4on, they simply do 4on instead and make 4on objects smaller! It’s just as good exercise for balance and strength, so you can go that road instead. If you want 4in later on, that should be easy to get after you master the 4on! For backing up, you can try to think of situations where she backs up on her own… My dogs always follow me everywhere and need to back up from some tinier rooms, like out of our dog food room 🙂 You could spend her meal on a situation like this that makes her back up, should give her an idea and should be easy to shape from there.
Here is a video of Moxie getting into the box and shaping frog. We also have the paw touch on the target down, but I didn’t video that yet. I realize watching the video I worked her too long with the box — her attention span was waning and I wasn’t clicking with enough frequency. When I tried to move to a smaller box she got frustrated quickly. I think because I wasn’t clicking enough. I assume that I should start all over again with the smaller box — click for looking at it, then putting one paw, then two…. — is that right?
Stephanie
How sweet is Moxie, what a cutie. 🙂 I have a five month olds Aussie Terrier and Silvia told me to reward more enthusiastically with strong jackpots and not to always toss the treat so Lucy could spend more time in the box.
I am struggling with the Frog. 🙂
Yes, higher frequency of clicking is always better! As we want duration too anyway you can also click&treat several times when she is with all 4 in (just as you do for a frog!), that will already help a lot with frequency problem 🙂 Shaping 4in from zero shouldn’t be necessary with the next size -- just make sure the next size is not too much smaller as the one before + to make the transition easier, try putting a new box in an old one when starting with a new one. Getting there with the frog too!