Your last homework already! Two more weeks left to catch up and then with October 3rd, this class is finished. If you want to keep working on Foundation stuff in a class form, you can join October Foundation class (that is repeat of this class) for a reduced price. If you want to take things further, you're welcome to continue in Handling class that will start 31st of October, I'll open the registration soon. In Handling class, I'll be posting two different exercises for two different levels: the whole course for more experienced teams and shorter sections that will still be focusing on training to some degree for beginners.
1. sequence
Let's check your stays. I usually train them away from agility until they are 100% with toys flying, dogs running around, me moving etc. - and then just use them here and there also in agility: probably only for about 10% of sequences we run, to make sure I'm not given too many opportunities to ruin them 🙂 In this sequence, you need a stay. Position your dog at the good angle to be on a good line for 2nd jump, go to your position and start. Choose how you want to handle it.
2. front, rear and blind crosses: as there were some questions on the crosses, I included a video with different crosses on the same sequence. Normally, I first do front crosses only (as I only do collection sequences) + blind crosses on tunnels, then add rear crosses on flat and at tunnels, then blind crosses and then rear crosses on jumps. So try rear cross on a tunnel and on flat first and if that goes well, try it on a jump: see the video - just ignore the double tunnel, use a single tunnel of course, I just used whatever I already had in a set up. If you want (I'm not forcing anybody, I'm just including those as some participants were asking about them), you can try it with blind crosses too. Normally, I will choose the cross based on a situation: for collection, I will use a front cross OR, if I can't get there in time, rear cross at the jump. For extension, I will choose blind cross OR, if I can't get there, rear cross on flat. At trials, I do the most front crosses, then blinds and maybe one rear cross every 5 runs... Yeah, not big fan. But of course, it's important the dogs know rear cross too as sometimes it is the only option!
You could of course run those sequences with front crosses only, I showed it with rear and blind crosses only as by now, I think we mastered the front crosses already, so we can try some rears and blinds (if you want).
3. send in your contacts, see-saw, weaves and multi-wraps (on your current height) work again to check how it's going and to give you some suggestions on how to proceed after the class is finished.
Hope to see you in Handling Class!
Here’s the sequence. Took a bit of work to get the threadle from that angle but it made me realize I need to practice threadles/serps/pushes from all sorts of crazy angles into the first jump in the line. All different speeds too!
Bree looks nice and smooth on this sequence, but I’m wondering where you see places that we could be faster.
The teeter is going much better. Instead of a pause while the plank drops, I’m getting little stutter steps if I’m behind but a nice drive to the end when I’m enough ahead either to have the toy in her face or drive past the teeter. She starts to squeal when she likes something so that’s a good sign. 🙂 Are there steps to take that will stop that little stutter step when I’m behind, or do I simply need to get in more repetitions with me ahead before expecting her to drive past me?
The other question I have is on her end placement. She likes to drop with her front legs on the ground. While this is fine on my teeter, I noticed in class that the teeter there was bouncing up under her back end. Should I try to shift her back so she’s dropping completely on the teeter? She weighs about 30 lbs. (I think that’s about 13.5 kilos????).
Have learned so much in this class. So sorry to be coming to the end.
The sequence sure went great! Maybe the cap on 11 could be even tighter if you said it even sooner, but well, you were still able to get her in with no problems! Is this her final height already? The teeter with you in front is great too, so I would try to be in front for now. When you have a helper, you can try being behind as the helper rewards her in a position (maybe even show her a toy first?). Next step would be a toy on the floor, waiting for her to get there when you’re behind. If it’s just one teeter that is bouncing up under her, I would just release her sooner on that one, but if it happens on other see-saws too, then it would be better to change her position… With Bi (she is 15kg), it only happens on one teeter (to make it really annoying: mine…), so I don’t hold her on it, but she holds other teeters with no problem.
Here are the short sequences for rear and blind crosses. I appreciate you including them in the lesson because I’m struggling with rear crosses. I can’t figure out why! I put in clips of me trying (unsuccessfully) to work through things hoping you’ll pick up what I’m missing. Bree used to understand rear crosses quite well so I would have thought it would be even easier with cik & cap. Clearly I can use some help on this. 🙂
Bree isn’t at full height yet in this class. We’re at 18″ and she’ll jump 22″. I had her jumping 22″ in a local seminar last weekend just because some of the lines in the courses were easier to handle at the higher jump height. She was very tight on cik & cap at 22″ so we’ll be up to full height in training shortly.
Always grateful for your help, Carol
Yeap, she doesn’t seem to understand cik&cap can come with a rear cross too… I would first only use first two jumps, doing cik on 1, but starting from the other side, cap on 2, cik on 1 etc., like a figure 8, but with a rear cross on each, just to make her see cik&cap can come with a rear. She is not too sure about it. Once that goes smoothy, bring the tunnel into the picture and then try starting the normal way again. I don’t like rear crosses too much either, but will sometimes do them in training when I’m not in the best running mood 🙂 -- just because I do want them to understand rears well too. Blinds and fronts are sure going great already!
I did the figure 8 you suggested and it didn’t go very well so this clearly is a good thing for us to be working on right now. I appreciate the suggestion.
Silvia, I did want to take a moment to thank you for all the help and feedback you’ve given me. It’s been pretty amazing how much I’ve learned in a few short months. I’d love to go on to the handling class right now but have decided to take some time to clean up and strengthen the things we’ve been working on in this class. We also have a lot more work to do in the RC class. 🙂 Hopefully you’ll offer the handling class again in the spring because I’d love to take it then.
With much gratitude. Carol and Bree
Thanks, was great meeting you&Bree too! She is really well trained already and your handling is really clear, with great timing, so I’m sure you’ll do great, we just need to get that RC now yes 🙂 Hope to see you in handling in spring, I might offer a new class or keep that one open. Happy training!
Here are my last videos. Your observations are so good, thank you!
I had to completely stop at first to get him to come to my right hand on the blind.
Wow, looks great! But yes, that second blind cross was very difficult, it requires really good commitment to that jump as the movement is pulling them off. But I see you mastered that one too, great job!
That was awesome!
-Marla
Thanks Marla
I fixed the link (changed hppt into httpv), but it says “this video is a duplicate” and I can’t see it…
Sorry, I am having trouble uploading the second video to the site.
Wow--hard to believe that this is the last session. While I am loving practicing i am burned out on editing videos so it’ll be good to take a little break. I’ve been throwing toys more and more for Nero lately, he threw his shoulder a little funny yesterday and I need to go back to being more careful again. I’m submitting a little video here with the rear cross front cross comparision. He’s faster by 10% with the front crosses and lead out. He’s also more accurate!
Here’s a little of where I am with the channel weaves. I keep pushing and pushing but he misses a lot from different angles.
Finally here’s a little session on the two 6ft ramps I have. I like his foot position here. I uploaded the videos to the wrong computer so can’t do slomo.
Thanks so much for a great session. I’ve enjoyed the instensity so much and have learned that even a pup can learn much more than I expected in the past.
Good luck at the WC Silvia. Now that I’ve seen what you are willing to push students to try in agility foundations I can truly understand why you’ve been at the top for so long.
Nancy and Nero
Yeah, I tried to include all the foundation training I do in this class, but it’s really A LOT for 3 months… I spread it more with my puppies, start young, but then don’t do it too often and only do sends to wraps for quite a while… -- but I didn’t want to do just that for the 3 months of class… 🙂 So I included it all, but it just is unrealistic to expect to master it all in 3 months, I think everybody still has some work left 🙂
Weave pole entries, keep making them harder in very small steps. Rear crosses he understands well, so that’s good, but yes, front crosses are definitely a better choice whenever you are there in time. And yes, GREAT hind legs hits at the end of the video!
What about a foundations#2?
Yeah, I would like that too. Something like “Advanced Foundation” and it could continue on from this class -- improve things we have already started, etc.
-Marla
How about either spreading out the lessons more or dividing the information so you have enough for 2 classes? People could train things more thoroughly that way.
I’m auditing and have really enjoyed the course.
Yeap, that would be another good idea, but I think I’ll just keep the whole material in as some participants have already done lots of cik&cap etc., to keep them busy too, but give everybody more time, make it 3 weeks lessons instead of 2.
That sounds like a great idea! I know I could have used 3 weeks on each lesson but, I like that we got exposed to all of your material.
The thing is that I already addressed all the topics I teach within this class and I can’t really give you anything new to train, we can only test, improve and challenge the things we worked on in this class -- through new, different situations and sequences. -- But that’s exactly the topic of the handling class. We talk about handling there, but also about what should be trained better etc. in order to get the best possible path on each course.
Sounds good to me. I will do the handling class then. Your photo is not coming thru. Thanks again for everything, we have learned so much!
Ann & Sidney
Hope this works.
Wow, that went great! That front-blind cross sure gave you a really tight turn on 6! Great line from 1 to 3 too, actually the only two little details I see where you could still gain some time is to run closer to the tunnel after a front cross on 3 -- you take him out more as necessary -- don’t be afraid of the wrong entry! And then on the line to the second tunnel, you wait and watch for him too much, I think that also makes him knock a bar as he is watching you back, not knowing where to go. Try to leave him more on his own on 8 and then (but I think my 8 was more to the left, so it was easier) so that you actually recall over 9 with you ahead already. That will allow you to push more for the tunnel and save you that bar as he will know in which direction to jump on 9.
Yes, I can see how the place I put 8 made it more difficult. What happened when I left him and tried to recall over 9 was that he jumped from the wrong direction.. I had to hang back to make sure he took the back of 8, then I got behind, and you were right about the rest. I will reset 8 farther to the left and do the recall again. What do you mean I shouldn’t worry about the correct tunnel entry??? I always worry about that kind of thing!
Thank you for a GREAT class.
I mean that your job as a handler is not to worry about wrong obstacles -- there are too many of wrong obstacles that you could hide them all. Your job is to forget about wrong obstacles and focus on showing the right ones instead. If you show those clearly enough, he won’t even notice the wrong ones. Meaning that you can run very close to that tunnel as long as you make sure you’re keeping him on your right hand and you don’t end up behind him to pull in the wrong entry.
I understand. Makes a lot of sense. It seems like the success of one obstacle (like the tunnel entry) may depend on how successfully you handle 2 or 3 obstacles previously.
Hi Silvia,
What would you ought me to do after this class is finished knowing that I won’t have much time available until december and that I’m far behind with RC:
option 1: redo this class
option 2: do the handling one (if you think it wouldn’t be to pushy for us)
option 3: focus on RC until december and start in january foundations or handling in parallel with RC because I’ll have to repeat it
I think I feel more confortable with option 3 because RC is worring me…
Thank you
Céline
Hm, I guess you need to decide based on how much time you’ll have… Given her age, I probably wouldn’t go for handling yet, but focus on foundation some more, revisit the exercises again and make the wraps and everything even stronger. So I guess you could either do foundations and running -- or just running if you want to focus on that now.
Hi Silvia, 2 videos, the first one with the sequence, the second one with blind and rear crosses. I´m not moving very good some times so Acqua is missing some jumps, the most dificult for me are the threadles, my timming is not good. Acqua is throwing more bars that I want.
thanks
Very strange she doesn’t read that beginning as a serpentine… IT’s just a serpentine, so normally, you wouldn’t need to do that front cross between 1 and 2. Maybe set a serpentine again, start it from a stay like this and then return to this sequence. Hang something on 3 to make jumping towards you easier. Then very wide on 5-6-7… Try to use cik on 6, maybe even in a combination with front-blind to tighten her up. And then no problems with the rest, I think the threadle actually went really well.
That rear was actually pretty hard as you put jump so close together she was bouncing it and therefore read the rear cross too late. That same closeness made the front and blind cross there very difficult and makes bars come down… -- but once she starts to expect it, she does it really nicely though! Things just get easier with experience.
Some problems with stays I see… Practice it a lot out of agility, with other dogs running around and toys flying around, expecting her to wait until the release. To make it harder and more agility-like, let the release be the only reward, don’t reward in a position at this stage anymore.
Thanks Silvia 🙂 Acqua’s stays are pretty good in other situations but in agility are pretty bad like my other dog Samba, she in training is good but in competitions are always moving 🙁 I guess is my problem, I must be doing something wrong.
This class was GREAT!! I have learned a lot of things and Acqua too 🙂 now we have a lot of things to master. Thanks a lot you are the best teacher 🙂
Thanks! And yeap, this habit of rewarding in a position is definitely not good for stays in trials. You need to train as you compete and train them to stay even when they know for sure the only reward for staying is a release to do agility. -- BUT there is no agility if not waiting until that release!
My problem at trials is that he refuses to lie down sometimes. He looks frozen and doesn’t connect with me. It doesn’t happen every class but it gets worse as the weekend progresses. The first 2 or 3 classes are good then he waits longer and longer to lie down then refuses, I can see him lock his knees. When he lies down he holds his stay and I can do long lead outs. At practices which are very chaotic, he is fine . We play this game where 5 dogs are in a circle and we toss a toy to one dog at a time after their name and release word. He does fine with this game. Any thoughts Silvia and anyone else?
Ann & Sid
Can he lie down in trials, watching other dogs run? Bu and Bi are are fine with that, but still get freezy at the start line. It helps to get the position if I stand in front of them so they can’t see the course. Still, with Bu I actually just let her choose the position and walk away as I don’t want her to feel under pressure -- she will sometimes do a step or two, but I position her far enough from the start line that this was never an issue. She knows where to stop to have a good approach to the first jump, so I let her do it. I’m more strict with Bi and wait for her to sit and then she is fine. Would he wait in stand?
Yes he will wait in a stand but then the next class he takes a few steps to follow me and more the next… and unless I give a firm ‘wait’ he would just go with me. I have him lie down facing me waiting for his turn and have him do hand touches and little games waiting for his turn. If I let him look he barks and barks at the dogs running and he will try to chase them when I take off the leash at the start. Once he left the ring from the start line to go chase the previous dog but that has not happened again. Movement triggers his chasing instinct. I like to run so I have accepted him standing and taking steps when he looks freezy. I also use food to reward tricks while waiting so he keeps his focus on me. Is this wrong? Should I let him watch? I have a perfect practice situation and can do what you suggest because we have so many dogs that we set up two sequences side by side and there are two dogs running at the same time. At first he chased the other dog and I put him away and tried again later. At first this was a nightmare but my club mates have been so tolerant (he only herds and barks at their dogs) that now he has no problem at practices and he focuses on his job. He is my first agility dog and I am sure I have made a lot of mistakes but he still loves agility and so do I!
It’s good to keep his focus on you, but I would still teach him to watch calmly too, might help you with the stays -- AND it will make it easier for you to come to the start line relaxed! Train it far enough from the running dogs that he can still lie down and keep rewarding until he is holding the position, either looking at you or the dogs -- as long as he is calm, it’s o.k. Immediately take him further away if he tries to lunge and as long as he is calm, you can slowly move closer. Try with smaller, slower dogs first, they find them less exciting. I think that once he can drop also when excited and watches calmly, it will be easier for him to lie down on start line too. And he doesn’t have this problem in trainings? Because my BCs are just as freezy in training as in trials… They don’t lunge at running dogs, but the anticipation of a release makes them freezy. So I’m especially grateful for running contacts 🙂
Yes, at practice he is practically jumping out of his skin and he actually whimpers but holds his stays and I have all the lead out I want. After his runs his hind legs are quivering even after I cool him down and return him to his kennel or the car. In the future I will let him watch at trials as you suggest when it is not his turn and see how it goes. I am so glad you have knowledge about this, there are not many people around my area who know what I am talking about and can advise me.
I am sure we will deal with start lines in handling class so I will continue to ask for your advice on this. Until then, thank you so much for everything. I plan to start at the beginning of AF with all the exercises and try to go up in height. Ciao!
O.k.! See you in handling class! 🙂
Hi Silvia,
I really enjoyed this class and we learned so much! I am looking forward to more classes. We have to take a break until end of October but will be looking forward to starting another class soon (and continuing with RC). I have posted all our final videos for this class (as you know Synergy is on crate rest right now for her little injury:-( So, what do you suggest for our next steps in training?
Weave Poles -- she is doing them closed from lots of different angles, with me running with, standing still and even going in other directions, throwing toys on the ground while she weaves, etc.
Teeter -- she just started doing whole thing and she was doing well with it but it is a solo obstacle right now (not done in any sequence)
DW -- well, we are in your RC class
AF -- nothing. I figured we will start then when done with DW
Jumping -- she jumps well and is following all handling
My question about jumping… She is currently jumping at 20″ (which is her required height). I do plan on jumping her at 26″ at some point (international height). Do you think I should get her to that height now or wait a year or so until she has done some trialing at 20″?
Thanks so much for your advice.
-Marla
Great, I think she is really well trained and all she needs now is some course experience: once she is back to running, you can set her courses of 10 to 15 obstacles, including weaves and see-saw and practice eveyrthing she knows (serpentines, threadles, outs, wraps, straight lines and all the crosses) in more course-like situations to help her recognize those patterns in real sequences too. Work on DW separately for now and yes, we’ll address the A-frame later in RC class, once DW is almost finished, so I would leave it for now. I would keep jumps on the height she will normally jump and then some months before you decide to do international stuff too start heaving the bars up, again very gradually.
OK. Thanks for everything. It was a wonderful class and we had a lot of fun. I am thinking I will trial Synergy at 20″ for a few months and then when she gets into Masters/Excellent level (which hopefully she can do in a few months), we will move up to 26″ and I plan to keep her at that height for the rest of her trialing. I just thought I should start at 20″ because she will gain more confidence. Is the equal of 26″ the height you trial Bu and Bi? I think Synergy is about their height.
Sounds like a good plan! And yes, we all jump 65cm here what is actually a little under 26″, more like 25 and a half. They’re 20″ (Bi) and 21″ (Bu) tall.
Wow, Bu is a really tall girl (same as her brother Spritz). Synergy is about the same as Bi.
Yes, Bu is pretty tall, but she looks really small as she is so light and “narrow”. She is very lightly build and actually weights less as Bi.
I watched some of the videos from the earlier lessons and realized that I needed to throw some more challenges at Leia while the channel was still open. She seems to be understanding her job. Now we’ll get back to closing them a little at a time while we continue to work distractions. Anything else we should focus on to progress with weaves?
These are our multi wraps from a couple of days ago. We started the class at 10″ and are now working at “16. Let me know how we should proceed.
Thank you,
Mara
Silvia, I also meant to ask you about the noise you make when Le is weaving. Do you always make the noise when she weaves and dose making a noise do something to help the dog?
No, I don’t think I always do it, but I like to talk to them so I do talk more as necessary 🙂 With Bu however, I saw it does speed her up… -- depends on a dog I guess.
Okay, thanks. I see Leia does speed up when I say something to confirm she’s right when she’s in the weaves so, it might be a good idea for me to do that with her. I can see how it would depend on the dog. Yes, multi wraps has never been exciting for her but, that’s actually better then where we started, if you can believe it. I’ll start on next height but, not do much and just do it mostly in sequence work…good idea for her! I did a short trick session with Leia and Ace last night and since we’ve been doing mostly foundation agility and not much shaping since puppy class Leia was more enthusiastic then she has even been! She was moving really fast and offering me everything she knows, trying very hard and begging me to work with her…it was really cool!!!
Great weaves! That RC at the start was really hard yes, those really ugly RCs are probably the hardest from all, so make them “uglier” slowly. You can also close it some more now, her weaving looks great. I see she doesn’t like the multi-warps too much, so you don’t need to do too much of it, but you can maybe start it on the next height now and then raise the bars for sequence work next.